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Albania is one of least visited European countries, making it an alluring new destination. This country has beautiful beaches, rocky mountains and unique east-meets-west villages perched on hillsides. Its history is complex, making Albanian culture diverse and its cuisine absolutely delicious.
One major airport serves international flights at the capital city of Tirana, but the Greek Corfu airport off the south coast is another great option and perfect for flying out. There is no rail system in Albania, just vans and buses, so a rental car is ideal. Consider a one-way rental from Tirana Airport to Sarandë Port for a flight out of Corfu fro the most efficient tour of Albania’s best experiences.
Modern Tirana
Start your day in Tirana at Skanderbeg Square. Named for a medieval Albanian hero, the square is in the heart of the city, and the location of their yearly Christmas market. Visit the National History Museum which offers some depth and context for the rest of your trip. Across the square is Et’hem Bej Mosque with its unique nature depictions; this symbol of religious freedom hosted the country’s first public Muslim gathering after the fall of communism in 1991. Nearby, the modern Orthodox Cathedral is a beautiful blend of architectural traditions and worth a glance inside at the intricate mosaics. Behind the cathedral is the House of Leaves museum detailing the secret activities of the former communist regime. For a different take on this part of Albanian history, walk to the Bunk’Art2 video exhibition inside an atomic bunker. A short walk away in Avni Rustemi Square, is the new bazaar and a great selection of traditional restaurants like the Oda.
Ottoman Berat
Known as the City of a Thousand Windows, this UNESCO World Heritage site is roughly two hours from Tirana. Berat has an old town full of rare Ottoman-era architecture. Give yourself a couple of days in Berat to wander the streets of the old Mangalem area, which was traditionally the Muslim quarter. Take in the scenery with a hike up to the medieval hilltop castle and wander around its old fortress wall. Part of the village still thrives within this wall, even as some places like the former Red Mosque fall to ruin. Traditional Albanian restaurants abound. Be sure to try some delicious fried Kaçkavall cheese and local favorite tavë kosi, a tasty lamb and rice casserole.
Albanian Riviera
From Berat, it’s time to head to the Albanian Riviera. This area is hot in the summer, warm in spring and fall and too chilly to swim in winter, but beautifully sunny and devoid of tourist crowds.
The first beach town is Vlorë, and it’s a good place to fuel up before heading south for the next 130 kilometers of clifftop coastal highway. The road is well paved with amazing views over the Ionian Sea, especially the windy, steep section over the Llogara Pass. On the other side of the pass is your first beach. Dhërmi has a large, bustling sandy beach with clear blue water and a cute old town perched high above. For a remote beach option, continue south to Gjipe. You need to hike about 2.5 kilometers into this beach, past old communist bunkers, but there are sea caves, a canyon and even camping to explore. If you prefer a chill beach vibe, then Himarë is a great choice. This budget-friendly town has a relaxed feel, beautiful beaches, great restaurants and a cool castle ruin to see. A few kilometers south is a fort at Porto Palermo. Built in the 1800s and used as a Soviet submarine base, it is full of abandoned tunnels and barracks. The next major town along the route is Sarandë, with its massive beach, lots of hotels and restaurants, and plenty of nightlife. It also has its own castle, monastery and synagogue ruins. For soft sand, you can’t beat the beaches a little further south around Ksamil. This cute village also has plenty of small coves worth finding and is close to Butrint Archaeological. Butrint is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with a former Greek colony, Roman city, Venetian castle and Byzantine ruins. It is a large site carved out of the encroaching forest and marshland which could easily occupy an afternoon.
When your time in Albania is over, it’s possible to return your rental car at the Sarandë port and ride the one-hour ferry to Corfu (Greece) where it’s a quick taxi ride to the international airport. Between the Finikas and Ionian ferry lines, there is at least one sailing daily in the winter and more options during the warmer months.
