Winter in Veliko Tarnovo ()

When we pulled into the Plovdiv train station, my sister and I were doubting our travel choices. It had been a restless overnight train ride from Istanbul with two little kids. Our berth on the Bospor Express was comfortable enough but a series of border stops kept us awake in the wee hours. So, riding into town past litter-filled vacant lots, Cyrillic graffiti and row upon row of brutalist housing blocks wasn’t the welcome we were after.

Then it all changed. A quick taxi ride whisked us up the hill into the Old Town of Plovdiv, and suddenly we felt like we were back in time. The tiny stone-lined streets wound between colorfully painted homes and former mansions built in the Bulgarian National Revival style that developed here. Six of these buildings, with their dark wood framing, rows of windows and overhanging second floors, can be visited. We enjoyed the bright blue Hindliyan House which housed floor-to-ceiling murals and period furniture that highlighted the wealth of the burgeoning Bulgarian merchant class.

The Bulgarian National Revival occurred in the 1700s, when the Ottoman government was in decline and Bulgarian culture and nationalism could develop. Bulgaria was part of the Ottoman Empire for nearly 600 years, and previously part of the Byzantine Empire. But Bulgaria’s origins are much older. The Bulgars, for whom the area is name, were a semi-nomadic people who united in 632 as Old Great Bulgaria. The nation developed north of the Black Sea, but quickly expanded southwest creating an empire that lasted until 1018.

There are much older layers to this town, though. Before the Bulgars moved in, the area was part of the ancient Roman Empire and Plovdiv was known as Philippopolis. The Roman stadium was built in the second century by Emperor Hadrian. It was a ten-minute, downhill walk along the cobbled streets of the bustling, cafe-lined shopping district. In another five minutes, we walked to the ancient Theatre of Philippopolis, a large Roman amphitheater that still hosts performances.

Back up on the hill in the old town, we visited the oldest layer of history at Nebet Tepe. Atop the hill is an archaeology park at a prehistoric settlement dating from 4000 B.C. that eventually became the city of Plovdiv. Thracian tribes fortified the settlement with dry-stone walls and towers. I marveled at the construction while my daughter pet a local cat and we enjoyed the hilltop view and city-park ambiance.

Over Shipka Pass

We rented a car in Plovdiv and planned to take a day to drive up over the Balkan Mountains and visit sites along the way. So, with my sister at the wheel, our first stop was only 20 minutes out of town.

Bulgaria is known for its numerous active Orthodox Christian sites, and Bachkovo Monastery is the second largest. We visited three unique mural-covered churches, wandered along the arched columns and walkways and fed the sheep that live at the complex. Nearby, we hiked up to Asen’s Fortress, a medieval clifftop ruin with a church precariously perched over the valley.

It was a two-hour drive to a town called Kazanlak at the base of the Balkan Mountains. Being an ancient history nerd, I had to stop and see the tiny third-century B.C. Thracian Tomb. The tiny red and blue-painted access tunnel was a bit claustrophobic, but the murals inside the tiny burial vault were worth the quick visit. We stopped for a late lunch in the small town of Shipka where we picnicked outside the picture-perfect red and white, gold-domed Shipka Memorial Church.

It was a curving mountain road up over Shipka Pass. At the top, the abandoned saucer-shaped Buzludzha Monument rose up like a post-apocalyptic relic left by the communist government. Back down the other side, however, was the contrastingly serene Dryanovo Monastery. We were able to pop into this canyon-floor religious center just prior to closing time and got a wonderful tour of the icon-laden church and grounds by a lovely older monk.

Tired of driving, we finally rolled into the historic city of Veliko Tarnovo.

Veliko Tarnovo

In 1185, a revolt by leading Bulgarian nobles threw off the crumbling Byzantine Empire to re-establish the Bulgarian Empire. Lasting over two hundred years until Ottoman forces invaded, the Bulgarian monarchs based their government in Veliko Tarnovo.

The city is laid out on the cliffs of the wildly meandering Yantra River, which folds in and back on itself so much that the town appears to be a series of cliff-top islands. In the Middle Ages, this situation made the town, and the seat of power at Tsaravets Fortress nearly impenetrable.

We planned for a morning at Tsaravets Fortress but stayed all day. Thank goodness we had snacks. After crossing a high cobblestone bridge and passing under three gateways, we finally entered the massive complex where vendors offered extra experiences like horseback rides and guided tours. My daughter loved the opportunity to dress up as a Bulgarian empress and pose on the throne.

Tsaravets Fortress was a small city that housed government families, a military base and barracks, a palace for royals and a huge monastery. While most of it lies in ruins, the Ascension Cathedral at the top of the hill was rebuilt in 1981 to mark the then-communist state’s anniversary. Inside, we marveled at the unique, dark modernist murals of Bulgarian suffering.

Outside, the kids enjoyed getting a bit lost in the nooks and crannies of the vast ruinous complex. There were stairs to climb, tunnels to search, and crenelated walls to walk along. Numerous places offered scenic views across the river to the Trapezitsa Fortress, where medieval noble families once lived.

The scenery and small mountain-town atmosphere define the Veliko Tarnovo area. We drove a few kilometers up a steep road to the tiny village of Arbanassi, which is maintained as a cultural heritage reserve.  We wandered around the preserved, but still occupied, 17th-century stone homes and admired the chickens and horses eating clover in the village square. We respectfully entered a few of the small neighborhood churches whose windowless walls and arched ceilings were covered in old murals and icons that had aged and darkened from burning incense.

Later we ate at the Sevastokrator Hotel’s restaurant. With views over the Veliko Tarnovo canyon below and a playground for the kids, it was a perfect afternoon in the heart of historic Bulgaria.