Church of St. John the Baptist in Ohrid, North Macedonia ()

Where is Macedonia? 

Defining modern Macedonia can be thorny, so a little background is helpful. In the fourth century BC, the ancient kingdom of Macedonia under Alexander the Great became an empire stretching south to Egypt and east to Pakistan. But it didn’t last. The area was fractured and lost power while part of the Roman and Byzantine Empires. Ottoman occupation in the 14th century ended the use of the term Macedonia.

It wouldn’t resurface again until the end of the Balkan Wars in 1913 when the modern Greek state of Macedonia was formed. Then, at the end of WWII, Yugoslavia redefined the most southern constituent republic as the People’s Republic of Macedonia. Both regions have a shared history and culture. After Yugoslavia’s breakup in 1991, Greece disputed the new country’s use of the word Macedonia by claiming it was cultural appropriation, but in 2019 the UN mediated an agreement adding the descriptive “North.”

We now distinguish between the Republic of North Macedonia as an independent country, and Macedonia, a large state within the country of Greece. The tumultuous history of the region has left behind a rich heritage of Greek, Byzantine and Ottoman influences that make visiting the mountainous country of North Macedonia a magnificent treat.

Logistical Details

VISA: Through December 2023 U.S. passport holders did not need a visa for trips less than fifteen days. The policy is being reevaluated in 2024. Visit www.mfa.gov.mk for current regulations.

MONEY: You will need to exchange money for the Macedonian Denar (MKD), currently one U.S. dollar is worth roughly 55 MKD.

TRANSPORTATION: Public transit is slow; a car rental is recommended.

ITINERARY: On a long weekend you can loop in the highlights of Skopje and Ohrid, taking in Matka Canyon along the way. With a week you can add on outdoor adventure in Mavrovo National Park or wine tasting in Tikveš.

What to See

Skopje

The capital of Macedonia, Skopje, gives off a dingy Soviet-era vibe from the outside, but it’s worth a day of exploration to see the unique brand-new, yet ancient-looking, government buildings and statues in the city center. Start at Macedonia Square to see a massive fountain monument of Alexander the Great riding Bucephalus. The city’s eclectic bronze statues get more interesting as you wander. Look for the skeletal beggar while heading south toward the Memorial House of Mother Theresa’s birthplace, or keep your eyes peeled for the divers below the statue-lined Stone Bridge.

Escape the quirkiness by venturing to the narrow alleys of the Old Bazaar where time stands still, and you can still haggle for your souvenirs. It’s also a great place to try tavče gravče, a baked bean casserole, or have a sarma, a tasty meat-stuffed cabbage leaf. There is also the delicious burek pastry filled with meat or cheese, and Macedonian Rakija, a fermented fruit brandy.

Above the town is the Kale Fortress, a sixth-century bastion which was likely built by Emperor Justinian on a spot occupied since prehistoric times. It is free to meander through the gates and explore the walls for a perfect photo of the city. In the evening, venture west of downtown to the Debar Maalo neighborhood where the concrete is masked by trees and the calm cafes and bars are open late.

Matka Canyon

This must-see natural beauty is only 15 kilometers outside of Skopje. The gorge has beautiful green waters backed by jagged mountains and a three-kilometer trail carved into the canyon wall. You can even hike to the canyon in good weather by taking the cable car in Skopje up to Mount Vodno and following the 13 km trail to the canyon rim. Alternatively, rent a kayak or take a small motorboat down the canyon to Vrelo Cave, which has one of the deepest underwater cave systems in Europe.  

Mavrovo National Park

With activities for all ages and seasons, this national park is a highlight. There are numerous hiking and biking trails throughout the mountainous terrain. In winter, the ski resort above Mavrovo village boasts 15 km of slopes and 13 lifts. Interestingly, when Mavrovo Lake was dammed, the old village church was partially submerged and can still be seen peeping above the water line. If possible, stay a night in one of the numerous scenic high mountain villages like Galičnik or Lazaropole which are known for their traditional woodcarving. Don’t miss a visit to Saint Jovan Bigorski Monastery, a fortified complex whose 1000-year history is displayed in the numerous relics, beautifully carved iconostasis and frescoes that completely cover the church interior.  

Ohrid Town & Lake

The town of Ohrid oozes history. Inhabited since the Iron Age, this UNESCO Heritage Site includes the cultural sites within one of the oldest human settlements in Europe and the unique lake ecosystem. Within the walled old town is the ancient Macedonian theatre, a Greek open-air amphitheater dating from 200 B.C. The Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon is a Macedonian-style gray stone structure with red brick trim and intricate mosaics. Nearby is the Plaošnik archaeology park where you can wander around the Byzantine ruins and then head to the local Church of Saint John at Kaneo, angelically perched on a cliff above the lake. A waterfront boardwalk connects the pebble beaches along the cliff-backed shoreline.

Above Ohrid is Samuel’s Fortress – a massive walled fortification atop the hill in old town built by Tsar Samuel of Bulgaria in the 11th century. Recent archaeological excavations have shown that it was built on an earlier fourth century B.C. fort, possibly built by King Philip II of Macedon (Alexander the Great’s father). To go back even further in time, drive roughly 17 kilometers south of Ohrid to the Bay of Bones Museum, a reconstructed village of stilt houses from the prehistoric pile-dwelling peoples who lived in the area from 1200 to 700 B.C.

Tikveš Wine Region

Since the fourth century B.C., the climate and vines of this region have produced quality wines. The biggest concentration of wineries is located in the area north of Kavadarci near the many arms of the Vardar River where the rolling hills are reminiscent of Napa Valley. Try visiting the large eponymous Tikveš Winery or the small family Winery Peshkov. For a great overnight, the Winery Lazar is situated in a lush green oasis along the river and offers overnight accommodations and a restaurant with four to six-course menus.