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Trattoria All’Angelo

Trattoria All’Angelo (Federico Meneghetti)

Chef Mauro and his wife Bari

Chef Mauro and his wife Bari ()

On a crisp winter Saturday morning, I found myself up early, ready for a day filled with culinary adventure just outside Vicenza. Today’s destination: Monte Summano, a picturesque area about 25 minutes away. My agenda included an exciting combination of truffle hunting and a hands-on cooking experience led by Executive Chef Mauro and his wife, Bari. Together, we crafted a three-course meal that celebrated the flavors of the region.

The day began at a small bar, our designated meeting spot at the foot of Monte Summano. The group—12 participants, many from the Vicenza Military Community—buzzed with anticipation. Alongside me were my husband and mother-in-law, all of us eager to embark on this unique experience. Once everyone arrived, Mauro gathered us for a quick briefing, explaining the plan for the day. We’d be guided by Silvano, a seasoned truffle hunter, and his two dogs, Nellie and Boss. Silvano’s expertise spanned the Veneto region and beyond, and we were thrilled to learn from him.

After introductions, we headed to Silvano’s home, where we met his loyal truffle-hunting companions. Nellie, an experienced dog with a calm yet determined demeanor, had won numerous awards for her skills. Boss, younger and full of energy, was still learning the ropes. Silvano explained that their unassuming appearance helped him remain inconspicuous, a vital strategy in a competitive field where other hunters are always on the lookout.

Our adventure began with a hike along a trail where the scenery was breathtaking. Views of the famous summit cross and remnants of World War I trenches added a sense of history to the experience. Mauro served as our translator, ensuring we didn’t miss any of Silvano’s fascinating insights. He shared that while Nellie’s age had slowed her down, her finds were often substantial, a testament to her seasoned nose.

As we walked, Silvano explained the intricacies of truffle hunting. With over 180 species of truffles identified worldwide, only about 13 hold commercial value. Among these, the black truffle, Tuber melanosporum, is particularly coveted, its name derived from the Latin tubera, meaning lump or swelling. In July 2022, black truffles fetched an astonishing 1,350 euros per kilogram. The equally prized white truffle (Tuber magnatum), also known as “Trifola d’Alba Madonna” (Truffle of the White Virgin), is celebrated annually with festivals across Italy.

The journey of a truffle from spore to plate is fraught with challenges. These finicky fungi require hundreds of precise conditions to align perfectly. Silvano went on to explain that environmental factors such as temperature, well-marked seasons, and rainfall or controlled irrigation must combine seamlessly with soil conditions, including acidity, humidity and minerals like phosphorus and potassium. This complex process underscores the rarity and value of truffles, as their growth depends on a delicate balance that is often unpredictable.

The dogs sprang into action, sniffing the ground with focus and determination. Nellie’s movements were deliberate, while Boss followed her lead, learning from the seasoned expert. When Nellie finally signaled a find, the excitement was palpable. Silvano carefully extracted the truffle, holding up the prized discovery for all to see. The earthy aroma was intoxicating, a reminder of why these fungi are so highly revered. Nellie’s find was massive, and the group was in awe, letting out a collective “OOO.”

Silvano also shared a traditional truffle-hunting tip: Look for a red fly hovering near the ground, often indicating a truffle below. This method, in addition to the dogs’ expertise, is a valuable tool in a truffle hunter’s arsenal.

After the hunt, we drove to Trattoria All’Angelo, where Chef Mauro and Bari guided us through preparing a three-course meal using the freshly unearthed truffles. The menu highlighted the simplicity and elegance of Italian cuisine, allowing the truffles’ rich, earthy flavors to shine. Each dish celebrated the day’s efforts, from the hunt to the table, creating a memorable experience that combined nature, tradition, and culinary artistry.

The menu included:

  • Roasted Boneless Quail with Potato, Truffle Salad, and Grape Sauce

  • Homemade Tagliolini Pasta sautéed with Black Truffles and Wild Mushrooms

  • Truffle filled with Ham and Cheese & Breaded Chicken Scaloppini

  • Bittersweet Chocolate Lava Cake with White Chocolate Sauce

The meal was perfectly paired with a Soave Classico DOC 2023 and Tai Rosso from Colli Berici. Each bite was a revelation, showcasing the truffle’s versatility and depth of flavor.

When I had the chance, I spoke with Bari about their journey. Bari, originally from Florida, shared how she and Mauro met when he moved to Florida from Canada. Mauro grew up just outside Vicenza and pursued a culinary dream in Canada, eventually working at the Ritz-Carlton as an Executive Chef for over a decade. After living in Atlanta, they decided to move back to Italy. “It was hard,” Bari admitted. “I knew only a little Italian, and I had two kids, but we did it!” The dream of owning their own place drove them forward, and they eventually bought the building that is now Trattoria All’Angelo.

Trattoria All’Angelo is more than just a restaurant. Nestled on the mountainside, it’s a haven for weary hikers looking to refuel, whether with coffee or a full meal. Beyond truffle hunting, they host foraging experiences, cookie decorating classes, classic Italian classes, vegetable-focused classes and soon, a course on building an earthen oven. These experiences are fun for the whole family and cater to both Italian and American clients, with classes typically split 50/50. The Vicenza Military Community is a significant part of their clientele, and repeat visitors are greeted like family.

Mauro and Bari also sell jams, spreads and homemade fermented products made with ingredients grown in their garden. Their focus on wellness and sustainability is evident, and they cater to every type of eater.

When I signed up for this experience, I wasn’t sure what to expect. What I found was a cozy space and a warm, inclusive environment where everyone could learn something new and feel like part of the family.

Whether you are part of the Vicenza Military Community or simply visiting the area, a cooking experience at Trattoria All’Angelo is an opportunity you don’t want to miss. Mauro and Bari have created a space where culinary artistry meets a sense of community, blending the rich flavors of Italy with warm, welcoming hospitality.

You can find Trattoria All’ Angelo on Instagram at @trattoria.allangelo, and their website www.trattoria-allangelo.it.

Kimberly Kephart is a freelance travel writer and destination content creator, collaborating with global brands and destination management offices. Based in Vicenza, Italy, Kimberly is passionate about exploring the globe and sharing her insights through her blog, Kimberly Kephart Travels, and on Instagram at @kimberlykepharttravels.

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Tamala Malerk is a writer and editor with Stars and Stripes Europe. She has been with SSE since April 2022 writing articles all about travel, lifestyle, community news, military life and more. In May 2022, she earned her Ph.D. in History and promises it is much more relevant to this job than one might think.

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