A peaceful cemetery at dusk, illuminated by hundreds of candles placed on graves in remembrance during All Saints’ Day, creating a warm and serene atmosphere against the deepening blue sky. (4th Life Photography - Adobe Stock)
One early November evening, I was walking our dogs through the forest near our house in Poland, the route was along a path that led to a local village cemetery. The air was crisp, carrying the earthy scent of fallen leaves, and the forest bathed in the soft golden light of the setting sun. As I strolled along the familiar path, I noticed a red-orange glow emanating from the local cemetery. The sun was casting long shadows along the path and as I walked closer to the cemetery, I noticed villagers arriving with cleaning supplies. Some were just starting the process of cleaning and tending to loved one’s graves. Lanterns were being placed carefully and some were even lit. The scene was both serene and haunting, with flickering lights creating a warm inviting glow amidst the encroaching darkness.
When I returned home from my walk, I eagerly texted my next-door neighbor Aleksandra to ask what was happening. She explained that from November 1-2, All Saints’ Day, or “Wszystkich Świętych” is celebrated. She invited me to join her and Łukasz, who also happened to be my landlord at the time, to a nearby cemetery where they would be paying respects to his family members and friends.
Glowing red and gold votive candles illuminate a serene path, creating a warm and tranquil atmosphere in commemoration of All Saints’ Day. (Mazur Travel - Adobe Stock)
I had only lived in Poland for one year and growing up in Texas and California, I knew about the traditions of Día de los Muertos, but I didn’t know much about what the Polish did. I don’t come from a religious background, so intrigued and eager to learn more, I agreed.
All Saints’ Day is a holiday that is observed annually on November 1st. It is a significant day of remembrance where families honor the memory of deceased loved ones. The origins trace all the way back to early Christian traditions and were established by Pope Gregory IV in 835 CE to “honor all saints, known and unknown.” It has evolved from pagan traditions to a Christian observance and ties into Poland’s rich religious history.
During the Soviet Occupation, the Polish people faced many challenges in celebrating this holiday. Authorities attempted to secularize it, stripping it of its religious meaning and referring it to the “Day of the Dead” (Dzień Zmarłych) or “All Dead’s Day” ( Święto Zmarłych). When I asked Aleksandra about this, she shared that her parents continued these customs in private to honor their loved ones. Some even being bold enough to go to cemeteries and leave candles burning. This was considered an act of defiance during those times.
As this is a very important holiday in Poland, roads are often busy with travelers heading back home to spend time with their families. Almost all shops and stores close down in honor of this holiday. People often spend time in reflection and remembrance, and you’ll find special church services held in memory of those who have passed.
You can even request what’s called “Wymienianki za zmarlych” where the names of the departed are read aloud during church services. This tradition dates to ancient Christian practices where the names of the deceased were recited during liturgical services. An act of remembrance and honor for those who have passed away. There are three types of Wypominki, including one-time prayers, and then prayers during the Octave, which are said to be eight days following the holiday. Wypominki is believed to help souls find peace and aid them in their journey. You’ll start to see memorials and plaques adorned with chrysanthemums, lanterns and sometimes even special candles. These candles or lanterns are a symbol of light and hope. To elaborate, I am told it creates a sense of unity and they help guide souls on their journey.
An ornate church interior with richly decorated arches, vibrant frescoes on the ceiling, and an intricate altar adorned with statues and gold accents. The long rows of wooden pews lead towards the stunning main altar, highlighting the grandeur and reverence of the sacred space. Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Święta Lipka (Janusz Lipiński - Adobe Stock)
Perhaps the most famous cemetery people visit is Powazki Cemetery in Warsaw, as over one million people are buried here. During World War II, resistance fighters sheltered here. During the Soviet occupation, the cemetery was the only place Polish could be spoken in public. So, there is quite a bit of history in this sacred space. Notable figures in Polish history are buried here like Marie Curie-Sklodowska. If you look up this cemetery, you’ll likely see photos from All Saints Day. It’s said you can see the glow of lanterns from afar, and even if you don’t have ties to the cemetery, it makes for a reflective and somber moment as you pay your respects to those buried or interred at the cemetery.
Aleksandra and Lukasz chose to take me to two different cemeteries in Bydgoszcz. The first is Cmentarz Starofarny where you will find the graves of 23 French soldiers who died in the Prussian-French War in 1870-1871. The area was covered in lanterns and flowers, symbols of remembrance that the French Contingent at the NATO Joint Force Training Center had left in the previous days. As we stood before these 23 graves, I took in what was going on before us: The kindness and the gesture to show me what this holiday meant to my friends and being let in on this special moment of reflection while creating a moment with my new friends.
An aerial view of Bydgoszcz, Poland, covered in a blanket of snow at night. The city’s historic architecture, including the illuminated Gothic church, half-timbered buildings, and charming bridges over the Brda River, glow warmly against the winter landscape. Streetlights and building lights reflect softly on the snow, creating a picturesque winter scene. (shaiith - 123rf)
Aleksandra gently broke the silence and asked me if I wanted to request a prayer or lay a candle down. Vendors were outside selling lanterns and flowers, so anyone could make purchases and then pay their respects. I opted to buy two small candles, one to pay respects to the French soldiers and one for my mom, who had recently passed away. I took the candle home and lit it near a picture of her and me in remembrance. The act of placing the candles felt like a bridge between the past and present: a way to honor those who came before us and to find solace in shared rituals of remembrance.
Kimberly Kephart is an established freelance travel writer and destination content creator based in Vicenza, Italy. With a passion for exploring the world, she shares her adventures and insights through her blog, Kimberly Kephart Travels. Kimberly specializes in creating comprehensive travel resources that inspire and guide fellow travelers on their journeys.
