Nordnorge (Kat Nickola)
I watched as the ship’s captain ladled ice water out of a bucket and dumped it down the back of my kneeling daughter’s neck. She squealed and Njörðr, the Norse god of seafarers, laughed. Well, I admit that I laughed did too. It was her Polar Baptism and the jovial atmosphere aboard the MS Nordnorge was contagious. Also, it was just really funny, until it was my turn.
The Hurtigruten
Half cruise, half ferry, the Hurtigruten shipping line began in 1893 as the primary way northern coastal Norwegian communities connected with each other and the world. Now called the Coastal Express, the ten ships that make up the fleet still ply the Arctic waters of western Norway providing ferry and shipping service to the towns along the fjords.
The route extends from Oslo in the south to Kirkenes in the far north, stopping at 34 port towns along the way. We booked our passage from Bergen to Tromsø. It’s possible to take a trip heading either north or south between any combination of ports, but the larger towns like Oslo, Bergen, Ålesund, Trondheim, Svolvaer and Tromsø, are the best options. In these towns, ships stay in port longer and dock during the day. Yes, since it is also a shipping vessel, some ports are visited at night! Many of those stops are fast 15-minute visits for loading and unloading.
Small fjord town in Norway (Kat Nickola)
Beautiful Bergen
The town of Bergen was a great starting point. My children loved riding the funicular up Mt. Fløyen. It was inexpensive, and the misty forest at the top was dotted with mossy trails past carved gnomes and rocky outcroppings, plus there were fun woodsy play spaces. I’ve heard the view of Bergen from the top is also beautiful on the rare occasion it isn’t buried in a cloud.
Down in Bergen, we spent a day wandering along the Bryggen, the old wharf area, taking pictures of the brightly colored clapboard buildings. An integral part of the Hanseatic trade routes of the 14th – 16th centuries, this historic part of town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The lower levels of these 62 original buildings have shops and cafes, plus the Bryggen Museum with interactive displays and artifacts of daily medieval life. At the end of the Bryggen wharf is the Bergenhus Fortress. There is an entry fee to see Håkon´s Hall and the Roskrantz Tower, both relics of Norway’s 13th-century golden age. The adjacent Bergenhus Festningsmuseum is free and offers a fascinating glimpse at the WWII Nazi occupation of Norway.
It was a pleasant walk from the Bryggen area through a hilly neighborhood to the Hurtigruten ferry terminal. We arrived at the earliest check-in time, one hour prior to boarding, and quickly went through an emergency briefing before walking up the gangway of MS Nordnorge.
Aboard the ship
Our basic, but comfortable, overnight berths accommodated two people and were designed for local ferry users and tourists alike. They had two single beds with one being able to fold down into a couch. There was also a small built-in desk with a mirror and chair, plus a tiny ensuite toilet and shower room. Hurtigruten berths are similar to those on a cruise, however much simpler in décor and amenities. Don’t expect extravagance, but they are clean, tidy and comfortable. That first night was difficult. Rough seas meant we were all feeling queasy and glad we brought Dramamine. However, the waves calmed and we found our sea legs.
On our second day, the ship pulled into Ålesund for three hours. We ventured into town and walked up the 418 steps to the Aksla viewpoint high above the town. Trondheim was the next day’s major stopping point, and we had plenty of time to walk to the 850-year-old Nidaros Cathedral. This Gothic masterpiece was built over the grave of Saint Olav, who is credited with bringing Christianity to Norway. It is covered with carvings of the gory lives of saints and dragonesque gargoyles. On the way back to the ship, we made a point of getting some pictures as we crossed the Gamle Bybro with its scenic red gates that frame the colorful waterfront warehouses.
Nidaros Cathedral (Kat Nickola)
Back aboard, we took advantage of the various lounges to sit and read while watching the scenery slip by. Our family chose to make this a digital-free vacation, except for pictures, and we prepared the kids by choosing books and special sketch pads ahead of time. It was slow travel at its best. Our favorite space was the seventh-floor Explorer Lounge with its panoramic views out the front of the ship and its giant brass steering wheel. Nearby was a small children’s play space and a library with chess boards.
Food aboard the ship was included. We purchased the half-board dinner and breakfast rate and bought lunch during shore excursions. The breakfast on offer at the Torget restaurant’s buffet was a wide range of tasty European options from British beans and sausage to local preserved fish favorites and a variety of breads. The buffet was a good chance to try unique Norwegian foods without committing to an entire meal. Dinners were served in three courses with a delicious selection of hearty soups and gourmet main dishes to choose from.
View from the Hurtigruten (Kat Nickola)
Final Stops
Some stops, like Bodø at the entrance to the Lofoten Islands, were a bit short for touring, so we would disembark and find a local grocery store to get lunch and snacks. When we pulled into Svolvær, it was dark, but we had time to pop into the ice bar for a drink and did get a peek at the aurora over the port. Other stops were merely a chance to get off the ship, stretch our legs, pet the local cats and get back aboard. The frequent stops helped to break up the days. Like a cruise, shore excursions are available for purchase as well. We found exploring on our own very enjoyable, but activities like dog sledding and island farm visits sounded interesting.
Tromsø, at the end of our trip, was covered in snow when we arrived. We visited the Polaria arctic aquarium which is right on the waterfront near the Hurtigruten dock. There were touch pools of anemones and sea stars and seal show. Tromsø also has other interesting sites like the Polar Museum dedicated to arctic exploration. A lot of arctic excursions like dog sledding and reindeer tours also start from Tromsø. They were outside our budget. Instead, we rented sleds and took the city bus uphill to the Charlottenlund park where we sledded until it was dark and even dug a hole in the snow for a fire to warm our toes like the local kids.
firepit for feet while sledding , Norway (Kat Nickola)
Entertainment and Activities
The Hurtigruten ship offered other interesting free entertainment options. For example, we attended a fascinating lecture (in English) on Viking history, learned the science behind the aurora and went to some of the daily information sessions to learn about recommended sightseeing. In the evenings there were retellings of Viking lore, which leads us to the Polar Baptism.
It took us five days to go from Bergen to Tromsø and along the way we crossed over the Arctic Circle. There was a competition to guess the exact time of crossing which involved a big ceremony on the rear deck. The Norse god of seafarers, Njörðr, appeared blasting his horn and announcing our arrival in the polar region. Guests were invited to kneel in front of him as the ship’s captain ladled a drizzle of freezing water, fresh from the Norwegian sea, down the back of our necks. After snickering when my daughter braved the ritual, it was my turn to be laughed at. The water was so cold, but the reward was a delicious warming shot of cloudberry liquor.
Find out more about the Hurtigruten Coastal Express by visiting www.hurtigruten.com
Arctic baptism aboar the Nordnorge Hurtigruten ship in Norway (Kat Nickola)
