Platsa Seascape: The coastline of Messinian Bay seen on the Platsa hike (Mic Fleming)
This summer, visit the land of the descendants of Spartan warriors and discover the awesome beauty of this rugged, distant place.
Mani is the middle peninsula of the Southern Peloponnese of Greece reaching to one of the farthest points south in continental Europe. As the cradle of Greek independence, it is known for a fierce fighting spirit, interminable clan warfare and a rugged landscape clawed by craggy gorges and dotted throughout by the stone war towers of its chieftains, The Taygetos (also known as the Taÿgetus) mountain range runs the length. At its tip is the mythological entrance to Hades.
Today, it is prime hiking country. Here are three magnificent trails overlooking the Messinian Gulf, on which you can test your own spirit. As with all hikes, water, sunscreen and suitable shoes are a must.
Ag Dim Tower: On the descent from Platsa is the tower of CPT Christeas, who fought in the Greek Revolution (Mic Fleming)
The Stoupa Bike Path skirts the rocky coastline between the sandy beach of Stoupa and the fishing village of Agios Nikolaos. With a paved surface and mostly level, it is enjoyed by walkers, runners, bicyclists and a bedraggled flock of sheep. The springtime flowers are sensational. Summer offers crystal clear vistas; and a moonlight walk is unforgettable. Mentioned in a few guidebooks, you may find yourself with an open way even in high season. Plan 50 minutes each way, only slowed by the spectacular photo ops. Hike one way, have a coffee or meal and return for a swim.
The Agios Nikolaos to Platsa Trail begins at Pantazi Beach. Well-blazed, it rises 1200 feet through the mountain villages of Pigi (“PeeGee”) on the way up and through Katroni on the return. The surface includes fields, some paved sections and Kalderimi, the stone donkey paths of earlier centuries, which as late as the 1970s were the main paths connecting villages. Even at a deliberate climb, plan three hours to cover the six miles. It’s an excellent choice for birdwatchers, who are certain to see a hawk and occasionally eagles. At night, jackals howl down the Tepeni Gorge. The view of the coastline from the top is rated three stars by Michelin.
The harbor at Agios Nikolaos on a sunny day (Mic Fleming)
Viros Gorge hikes start at Kardamyli and offer three distinct routes ranging from four to ten miles and can be completed in three to five hours. Further explorations require strenuous, if not expert, skills, such as if you attempt Profitis Ilias (Mt. Elijah), the highest mountain in the Peloponnese at 7,890 feet. Hardy Norwegians aren’t wrong when they come to Kardamyli to hike the Gorge and relax afterwards at the one of the semi-annual jazz fests. In theory, one could go over the Taygetos range as Viros was once part of the Royal Way from Sparta to its port in Kardamyli. The main hike up the gorge includes spectacular rock formations, once-inhabited caves and a bonus of two hidden late medieval monasteries.
Kardamyli is listed in “The Iliad” as one of the seven cities offered to Achilles to return to battle. It is a popular destination included on Rick Steves’ tours. The Mourtzini Tower and other towers founded by the medieval lords of the region overlook the town. The next Kardamili International Jazz Festival is October 12-20, 2025, emphasizing New Orleans-style music with such stars as Tricia Boutté. The Taygetos Challenge Race is an annual event that includes several runs. The next one is March 19-24, 2026, with the marathon on March 22nd. Aquarella is the place for sunset cocktails; 1866 Beer Bar is the best pub. Vibrant in summer, the village shuts down in winter.
Stoupa is a package tour destination and home to many British expats. It has the sandiest, most kid-friendly beach in the area bordered by many good restaurants on the promenade. In 1917, Nikos Kazantzakis lived in Stoupa, later writing his novel “Zorba the Greek” based on the manager he hired in his venture in a lignite mine. The novel is set in Crete, but Zorba’s mine was in the hills behind the village and Kalogria Beach is where he danced. The best pizza is at Olio; the best brunch is at Patriko, both on the beach.
Rocky shoreline of the Stoupa Bike Path (Mic Fleming)
Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas) is a working fishing village; although, the number of boats going out each day continues to decline. “Discovered” in recent years by travelers fed up with the crowded islands, “Ag Nik,” as the Brits call it, is experiencing a high-end upgrade. It has fewer accommodations than the others, but an excellent choice of restaurants. Ellie’s is the best traditional taverna. Locals claim Nereids as the best bar, known affectionately as Aggie’s, the name of the owner. And don’t miss gelato at Leonardo’s.
Platsa was once an important regional center. Today, it is mostly deserted. Wandering around the old stone buildings in the narrow medieval streets of twists and turns lined with walls of bright bougainvillea is a reward in itself before you begin the descent. George’s kafenio Oi Moypiee provides a simple place for a break.
Platsa Hike: Parts of the Platsa hike are over ancient kalderimi donkey trails. (Mic Fleming)
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of Defense.
