Everyone has heard of Athens and Sparta. But what if I told you about an entire Greek city-state given a two-star Michelin rating that is entirely off the tourist radar? Lying abandoned, broken by earthquakes and buried under nine meters of flood deposits for a thousand years, Messene has only recently been rediscovered.

So far, archeologists have unearthed a stadium, two theaters, four temples, tombs, mosaics, an impressive mausoleum and the outlines of an agora and gymnasium. Excavations are ongoing. The magnificent stadium was reconstructed in 1996.

Named for a mythological warrior princess, the Messenians are my favorite ancient resistors. For three centuries they waged a constant losing struggle against Spartan domination, subjugated to slavery, slaughter, cannon fodder and even target practice for Spartan recruits. Thousands of refugees scattered across the Mediterranean.

From the Second Messenian War, the name of their leader, Aristomenes, is commemorated in street names throughout the region. During the Third War, Messenians held out in a mountain stronghold for ten years, coincidentally as long as the Trojan War. But as a defeated people, much of their history is lost except for their constant fight for freedom.

The Theban general Epaminondas finally broke the Spartan grip on the area in the decisive Battle of Leuctra in 371 BC. The Messenians then returned home to build their capital city and recover their historic identity.

To protect their new city from renewed Spartan aggression, the Messenians quickly surrounded the city with a massive wall. At 5.5 miles long, ten feet thick and with heights up to 30 feet, they included forty watch towers and bastions. Even before the last stones were placed, the wall struck awe. Travelers compared the structure to the strongest fortifications in the Mediterranean. Considered a masterpiece of military engineering, they became an instant symbol of Messene’s independence. 

Located outside the formal archaeological site, the best place to start your tour of the wall is on the western approach at the Arcadian Gate with its huge, precisely cut stone blocks fit firmly together without mortar. From there, you can check out several impressive watchtowers and follow the easily traceable ramparts.

Stepping into the archeological site, the main theater is just past the entrance. Construction began in the third century BC. So far, the orchestra floor and the first dozen rows of seating have been uncovered and reassembled, but it is estimated to have seated 10,000 spectators. Romans expanded the stage to 30 yards wide with a three-story backdrop, left today for our imaginations. The column pieces are Roman. During the ensuing Christian era, the theater fell into disrepair, its stones were quarried for Byzantine buildings and it was eventually buried by time.

A second small theater is near the temple complex and was used for gatherings such as poetry readings. Scholars estimate that Messene boasted up to 180 statues of gods and heroes. Disapproving of their nudity, the Byzantines smashed most to bits. But at this little amphitheater there is a base with a description that honors four female commanders.

More complete than Olympia and more accessible than Delphi, the Messene stadium gives a real sense of the roar of the crowd and the thrill of the contests. The Romans expanded beyond games to gladiatorial combat. My wife photographed me bent down at the starting line in Olympia ready to sprint; but unlike there, here I could have actually run a quarter mile around the still-existent track. An unexpected feature is a row of toilets flushed by diverted spring water. More or less open air, one could take a seat and not miss a moment of the action.

Located on the main road, the small museum has only three rooms. But they display a fine collection of recovered sculptures and architectural fragments. A model of the city provides a good introduction to what you will see. There is a terrific statue of Hermes giving a perfect example of the athletic form so admired by the ancient Greeks. I am always impressed by a marble lion chowing down on a hapless deer and a statue of Artemis reaching over her shoulder for an arrow. Your ticket covers both the site and the museum.

Messene is open year round, except for national holidays.

• Winter hours are from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; summer 8 a.m to 8 p.m.

• Entrance is €10.00.

• Wear comfortable shoes and a hat.

• Bring sunscreen and water.

• Plan for two hours and be prepared to walk.

• The only WC is behind the ticket booth.

The drive is 45 minutes from Kalamata: just head towards the airport and the modern town of Messini (note the spelling difference!). The Ithomi Taverna in the village gives a splendid overlook above the site. And for those wanting an overnight, the scene in the moonlight is spectacular. Of the several simple guest houses, Messana Hotel is the best. 

Mic is a travel writer living in the rugged Mani of Greece. He holds a BA from Yale University in early medieval architecture and an MBA from the University of Chicago. Among other stations during his career in the Army, he served two tours in Germany.

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