Italian storefront nativity scene, or presipio ()
This time of year is a favorite for many. Seemingly overnight, giant decorated trees sprout up in city centers. The smell of cinnamon-glazed almonds wafts through the air and steaming mugs of mulled wine or hot chocolate warm up hands and souls. Then, in the blink of an eye, it’s gone, and another year begins. In Naples, there’s one spot that keeps the holiday alive year-round.
Deep in the heart of the city, on a pedestrian-only street, is Via San Gregorio Armeno. Dubbed “Christmas Alley,” this narrow, cobblestoned street is filled with old storefronts and ornate window displays with a “presepio” or nativity scene. In a country where 78 percent of the population identifies as Catholic, the “presepio” is a highly-coveted and revered part of the holiday season.
The “presepio” is designed to be a scene that is added to every year. While there are plenty of pre-made sets, what makes these unique is that you can tailor the nativity to your liking. If you feel like adding a figure of King Charles or Christiano Ronaldo next to baby Jesus, you can! Many shops have been passed down through generations spanning five centuries and still make the figurines by hand.
During the holiday season, Via San Gregorio Armeno becomes one of the most popular destinations in Naples. Because of the crowds, the council may implement a one-way pedestrian walkway through the street. If crowds aren’t your thing, don’t worry. The shops are open all year.
