Bavarian Viehscheid

Woman walking on the right of side of cow and a man walking behind the cow (Kaiti Green)

My children and I were waiting in line for a festival game at the volunteer fire department in Missen, Germany when the woman running the game asked, “Do you speak English?”

I said, “yes!”

“I will try to tell them the rules, but my English is not so good.” Then, she explained the game to my children in perfect English.

Once my son started his turn she asked me, “Where are you from?”

“The United States,” I said.

She looked shocked and exclaimed, “How in the world did you find Missen!?” My response: the internet!

Four men walking in front of cows on road (Kaiti Green)

Missen is a small village in Bavaria and part of the Municipality of Missen-Wilhams. According to the last census, the population is less than 500. My husband, our four children and I went to Missen to see the Viehscheid. How I found Missen is a story of internet searches and a near-obsession with seeing a cow parade before leaving Germany.

Like many families stationed across Europe, my family has taken the opportunity to travel and experience the cultural events of our temporary home. To prepare for our PCS to Europe, I did what any self-respecting millennial would do: scour the internet for information. I joined Facebook groups, downloaded WhatsApp and watched all the DTV (Daniel Television) videos. I quickly started building a Germany “bucket list.” I can’t remember how I first heard of an Almabtrieb, but from that moment on I knew I had to see one.

Close-up of cows walking down the road (Kaiti Green)

A Viehscheid or Almabtrieb literally translates to “cattle separation.” During the summer months, Bavarian farmers send their herds into the mountains. In September, before the first snowfall, the cows are driven down from the mountain and paraded through town. The cows wear large bells and, if there were no losses amongst the herd, beautiful flower crowns. People wear their Trachten (traditional Bavaria clothes) and line the streets to watch the cows go by. A festival follows with music, food, and games.

In Missen, the ceremony started with alpine horn players and a speech. I am a stereotypical American and my German is woefully inept. I got the general sense that the speaker said something happy and slightly humorous, judging by the smiles and smattering of laughter from the crowd. Four herds totaling around 100 cows were driven into town. The lead cow wore a crown of flowers topped with a cross. My six-year-old said, “she must be the queen cow.” There was one large tent with a traditional band (learn the words to “Ein Prosit,” it will come in handy). We enjoyed a variety of cakes and other traditional foods. The party went on well into the night.

Small boy dressed in tradional Bavarian clothing standing in front of cows (Kaiti Green)

We returned to our cottage at a farm a short drive from the village. Permakulturhof Oberstixner is an idyllic little farm operated by the Dünser family. It’s one of several accommodations listed on the Missen-Wilhams website ranging from farms to holiday homes. Staying on a farm for the weekend was a delight. The children loved the animals and playing in the hay. My husband and I loved the peaceful atmosphere and plentiful walking trails. The Dünsers were so welcoming and kind.

Taking time to slow down, spend time together as a family, and enjoy German culture was a perfect way to begin the fall season. I hope you, too, will add the Viehscheid to your travel list. Everyone should see the cows come home.