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Every December from the time I was a toddler to my junior year of high school, my mother hosted a dessert buffet. At sunset, the house was bathed in soft candlelight and smelled of cinnamon as mulled wine simmered on the stove. I stayed out of the way as Mom rushed to put the finishing touches on the dozen or so desserts she’d been preparing for days.

From 8 p.m. onward, guests in beaded dresses and tweed suits arrived in waves to make small talk, sip spiked eggnog, and enjoy two-tone fudge, trifle, pralines and other surprises. Mom limited my portions when I was young, but I found grown-ups willing to sneak an extra slice of cake or scoop of pudding for me. In my teen years, I discretely served myself seconds and thirds.

Now in my 30s, I continue my mom’s southern traditions and satisfy my dessert stomach by baking holiday treats for work, parties and dinners. These are a few favorite recipes:

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