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Let’s suppose three good friends based in Germany have agreed to get together and do something fun over the coming weekend. Person A is up for the rides and slightly honky-tonk atmosphere of a Volkfest. Person B leans more towards a wine fest. Person C loves anything that smacks of history.
Where should they go? The Wormser Backfischfest, a tradition-rich festival that ticks all the above-named boxes. First staged back in 1933 and then forced into an early retirement with war looming in 1939, the event is a mere youngster compared to some of Germany’s centuries-old stalwarts. However, many of the rituals repeated here hark back to a place in time when Worms’ citizens depended on their watery neighbor, the mighty Rhine, to make their living. Part of the festival plays out on the ancient narrow street known as the Fischerwääd, the traditional home of the town’s fishermen. Fishing is a trade with deep roots here; in fact, the first guild in all Germany was founded by Worms’ fishermen in 1106.
The name of the largest folk and wine festival held along the Rhine has a curious double meaning. “Backfisch” not only refers to a type of fried white fish; it’s also an old slang expression for an innocent adolescent girl.
This edition of Worms’ Backfischfest opens on Aug. 25 and runs through Sept. 2. On all days of its run, visitors can enjoy its handful of thrilling rides such as the giant Ferris wheel and adult swings rising high upon a steel tower; the “Wonnegauer Weinkeller,” a wine village housed inside a tent where 400 kinds of locally produced red, white and sparkling wines are served from 20 stands; or the Circus party tent, where live music and DJs provide music to move the masses. Eating fried fish is naturally another cherished pastime to indulge in here.
One-off events on the program include a festive, carnival-like opening ceremony with costumed musicians, dancers and historical figures from 3:15 p.m. Aug. 25; a parade consisting of over 100 different groups and floats weaving through the city center from 2 p.m. Aug. 26; river jousting matches from 2:30 p.m. Sept. 2 and a massive fireworks display at 9 p.m. Sept. 2 (Labor Day follows, so late bedtimes are allowed). Places on two 90-minute wine-tasting sessions on the Ferris wheel are already booked out, but fingers crossed, they’ll be doing it all again next year, and you can sign up in good time.
Getting there: Worms is easily reached by train. From Kaiserslautern, the ride takes roughly an hour and a half with a change of trains at Mannheim’s central station; from Wiesbaden, it’s a 58-minute journey; switch trains at Mainz’s central train station. From Worms’ train station, the walk to the Festplatz out by the Rhine takes about 20 minutes.
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