Christmas Lights in Paris (Katie Wells)
Oh Paris, the city that breathes romance. Since moving to Germany, I find myself travelling to Paris in the colder months.
Maybe it’s because in the winter carbs are extra delicious. Or maybe it’s the soft French café music, a Parisian walking with a small evergreen on their shoulder and the backdrop of Renaissance architecture that makes Paris feel like a dream state. Everything is slowed down. I can stroll for longer when the weather is cool and there are less crowds. Taking in the beautiful sites feels more intimate when they are not obstructed by bobbing heads and smart phones reaching into the sky. I dare to say, I almost feel like a local myself.
Special Christmas light displays brighten the city in November and December, and Paris has 15 - 20 pop-up Christmas markets to visit. I favor le Marché de Noël de Paris Notre-Dame because the grand cathedral is in the background and Père Noël, or “Father Christmas” was there when I visited in December with my dad.
Père Noël at Marché de Noël Notre-Dame (Katie Wells)
It’s also only a few hundred feet from the famous Shakespeare and Company English bookstore, open since 1951. Colder weather is perfect for ducking into a bookshop to warm-up and browse. When travelling, I enjoy asking the staff for their recommendations of a regional author. After buying a couple of books at Shakespeare and Company and seeing pictures of famous writers who frequented the shop like Hemmingway, Fitzgerald, Pound and Stein, I head back to the market for macaroons and vin chaud, or hot mulled wine.
During a visit in February, I was glad to catch the sunrise. A friend and I made our way to a bridge and watched as the warm pinks and oranges reflected sepia tones onto the city’s famous architecture and monuments. We played “La Vie en Rose” (cheesy I know) and watched as a single boat cruised quietly down the river.
View of the Eiffel Tower Across the Seine (Katie Wells)
So how to spend a quick Winter weekend in Paris?
A day for walking
My itinerary takes an early ICE train from Kaiserslautern, Germany so I can get to the city in time for coffee or lunch. I’ll reluctantly share my favorite tip, which is, after storing my luggage with the hotel, I walk to Café Kitsune at the Louvre location. It might just be my favorite coffee shop in the world. I order a mochaccino then make my way upstairs where the seating overlooks the gates that lead to the Louvre. It’s not a magnificent view, but it is full of Paris vibes. The coffee comes with a little swan or heart in the foam. It’s rich with notes of fruit and dark chocolate, and the staff really care about what they do. To me, it’s the perfect way to soak in the fact that I’m in Paris, and recharge before journeying out.
Moccocino From Café Kitsune (Katie Wells)
I enjoy walking around the courtyard of the Louvre. Just seeing the architectural detailing on the buildings and the glass pyramid is breathtaking. The courtyard gets amazing sun, so when it’s out you will find people lounging on the concrete blocks and soaking it up along with the views. From there, I like to hit a main attraction, such as the Eiffel Tower. Of course, if I see something interesting along the way, I pop in. To break up the walk from the Opéra area to the Eiffel Tower I make a slight detour across the river to NoGlu, an all gluten-free boulangerie with delicious eclairs and croque monsieur’s.
Walking Through the Gates to the Louvre (Katie Wells)
I like to book a hotel in the Opéra neighborhood between the 2nd and 9th Arrondissement because the hotels are a bit more affordable. It is centrally located between the Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel Tower, and so close to the Louvre, Mussée d’Orsay and the Tuileries Garden.
After a rest at my hotel, I find a specifically French cuisine restaurant. If you haven’t had a French rotisserie chicken in the winter, I highly recommend it to warm your belly and soul. The blend of French butter, tarragon, and rosemary basted onto the skin are simply savory. For an appetizer, you can’t go wrong with a traditional French onion soup, cheese bubbling over the brim of the cup.
Once it’s dark, I make my way to the Arc De Triumph. Tickets purchased online are good for anytime during operating hours on that date. Another perk of winter is that admission is free every first Sunday from November until March. I usually taxi one way after all the walking from the day. What I like about going at night is that once at the top, you have a birds-eye view of Paris and can see the Eiffel Tower lit up.
You can also see the flame burning at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which celebrated its 100th anniversary in November 2023. Soaking in the views from the top of the monument and seeing the miles of walking you just covered, is a wonderful way to end the day.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Katie Wells)
Museum days
The next day or two is a great time to explore museums. Again, in winter there are less tourists, so you can spend more time with some of the world’s most cherished artworks and less time pushing through crowds. After seeing one of my favorite paintings, Monet’s smaller version of “Water Lilies” at the Musée d’Orsay I found the cutest Christmas ornament of Monet with a paintbrush in his pocket and a waterlily on his lapel. They also had Van Gogh with a sunflower. If you love art like me, I highly recommend The Louvre, The Musée d’Orsay, and Musée de l‘Orangerie. Seeing an opera or touring the Palais Garnier is another must. It’s one of the most famous opera houses in the world, made famous by “Phantom of the Opera.” This is also a great time of year to take cooking or baking classes and impress your holiday company when you arrive home with fresh croissants or French roast chicken.
Winter is for slowing down, and while you can pack a lot into a weekend in Paris, it’s nice to take a more leisurely approach, hitting one or two main attractions each day, and then simply enjoying strolls, letting your nose carry you to the Christmas markets via smells of roasted chestnuts, and enjoying the rich flavors of French cuisine.
