York Minster ()
In need of some serenity and calm? A vast British garden may just do the trick. At any time of the year, they are lovingly tilled and trimmed, often alongside mammoth structures like castles and cathedrals with stories to tell. I’m a fan of travel escapism. When I come back to daily life, I am regenerated and reinspired, and life in the modern day is reframed because I took time to understand the past.
Historic gardens, in a particularly fun way, are alive, and yet undying because efforts are made to feature the original owner’s favorites as they were centuries ago. When hand-drawn layouts no longer exist, archeologists heave away mounds of earth (using remote sensing equipment or actual shovels) to uncover where original decorative fixtures once stood at the pleasure of the noble residents. Something new is sometimes added to the original layout, like a revived kitchen garden to feed castle visitors with its fresh flavors.
Felbrigg Hall, Norfolk
On the sprawling 500-acre Felbrigg estate, the magnificent gardens make a striking first impression, strewn with cherry blossom trees. Many trails, a lake and wildlife abound to observe in unobstructed nature. Closer to the hall, the high-walled and manicured gardens are lovingly cared for. In the winter, the staff curate much of the maintenance and new planting projects, and they uncommonly have the freedom to cultivate beyond the traditional arrangements. Plant lovers can be inspired with a stroll through it all, and then stop at the cafe, gift shop or secondhand bookshop to cool off.
Alnwick Castle, Northumberland
The opulent interior of Alnwick was remodeled in the style of the Italian Renaissance, and the rooms are fully outfitted in Carrera marble, chandeliers and collections derived from the interests of previous residents. Ornate woodwork is also evidenced throughout because the Alnwick School of Carving was established by the fourth Duke to focus on the various projects each room called for. For all its majesty, it is not surprising that Alnwick Castle has most recently starred in the 2023 Dungeons and Dragons movie, and previously in the first two Harry Potter movies, “Transformers: The Last Knight,” “Downton Abbey” and others. You may finish the tour of the castle thinking your eyes have been overindulged with gilded beauty, but you haven’t seen the adjacent Alnwick Gardens yet!
Capability Brown, a famous British garden architect, began massive work on the landscape for the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland in 1770, going to such lengths as to slow the nearby River Aln’s flow by installing cascades so that the castle above could be mirrored on the calmer water. In the present day, the current Duchess led the impressive renovation of the gardens into a 12-acre community pleasure space in the late 1990s. Greeting you at the entrance is the Grand Cascade, a tiered fountain with a mesmerizing light show. Keep a lookout for the world’s largest treehouse (with a restaurant inside), which is nestled in a wooded area. The Poison Garden is another unique area, which is home to an educational collection of toxic plants, such as opium poppies and rhododendrons. Many have cages over them to protect curious hands, and tours are given to explain their characteristics and how humans have used them over the centuries for both wicked and good endeavors. (Used in the right amounts, a few of the plants have healing properties and are used in medicines!)
Arundel Castle, West Sussex
Arundel Castle is a perfect example of the transformation of purpose that castles had over time. From the stark defensive needs of the 11th-century Normans to the opulent great hall and rich 19th-century library, there is so much to explore. At the highest point, the castle’s original motte-and-bailey keep is centered within its expansive walls that cut into the surrounding woods. It is hard to believe that this castle sat in ruins after its third siege for 150 years before being renovated. It has such a diversity of environments that movies like 2017’s Wonder Woman was filmed on location.
Plan to spend most of the day here if you want to get a full tour and stop for a bite afterward at the lakeside Swanbourne Lodge Tearoom a short distance away.
The Collector Earl’s Garden
Originally part of the castle’s kitchen garden, this new outdoor masterpiece was dedicated to the 14th Earl of Arundel in 2008, who loved to collect art. Visiting its pergola, fountains and tropical plants under the romantic shade of trees makes for a captivating stroll.
Interesting fact: Dukes of Norfolk (an English county) have actually been based in Sussex since the Tudor period. Marriage between the Earl of Arundel’s daughter, Mary FitzAlan and Thomas Howard, the fourth Duke of Norfolk, determined that Arundel Castle should be the Norfolk county seat.
Ely Cathedral, Cambridgeshire
The original abbey in Ely was built in 672 C.E. by St. Etheldreda, who was an Anglo-Saxon queen and the Abbess of Ely. The designation for this site set a path for this city to remain the home of a magnificent place of worship, even after the first abbey was destroyed by Danish Viking invasions. Rebuilt in 1083, the cathedral has since been refinished many times, with the core remaining mightily Romanesque and later Gothic elements beautifying the vast space. One of the unique Gothic additions that visitors can marvel at today is the octagonal tower. It was created by complete accident when the previous tower collapsed, but with such intentionally intricate work to install something this beautiful will have you lost in gazing for a while.
York Minster, Yorkshire
When it’s the largest Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe, it’s bound to be a stop while venturing around. The current building began construction in 1080. Since then, it has undergone centuries straight of expansions. The famous Rose Window in the south transept tells the story of union after the Wars of the Roses. It showcases a pattern of red Lancastrian roses and white York roses united to form the Tudor rose.
The undercroft, or the chambers below the main floor of York Minster, is actually a museum with archeological finds on display. This includes the 1960s discovery of the remains of a Roman barracks and Norman-era church foundation, which you can observe as you float over it on the transparent floor.
Why is it “York Minster”?
The honorific “minster” refers to a church’s origin in Anglo-Saxon times and the role religious institutions played in ministering to the population.
The National Trust provides stewardship for many of these properties. If you are in the U.K. for a while and you love frequenting historical sites, it may be worth exploring a paid membership for free entry and parking. Visit nationaltrust.org.uk for more details.
