The Dolomites (123rf.com)
Rising like jagged teeth above the bucolic high mountain fields of northern Italy are the iconic Dolomites. A favorite spot for mountaineers and rock climbers, the Dolomites are an outdoor sports paradise.
The Dolomites’ limestone mountain range lies within the southern portion of the Alps and is largely protected by national and regional parks that dot the area. The beautiful and unique geological landscape was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009.
Hiking
The choice for hikes in the Dolomites is endless. The Giau Pass near the town of Cortina d’Ampezzo is an especially serene area of mountain pastures surrounded by high peaks. At the trailhead, there is an easy family-friendly stroll into the pass or an intermediate hike up onto the rocky Mondeval plateau where a Mesolithic burial was found to be 7,500 years old. For an all-day adventure, the Cinque Torri loop passes a First World War open-air museum and continues around the five peaks with open views into the surrounding green valleys.
Another iconic Dolomite hike is the Three Peaks loop beginning at the Auronzo Refuge, then getting up close and personal with the scree slopes below three of the most distinctive jagged mountaintops in the area. For the committed backpacker, try the 12-day, 125 km Alta Via 1 which traverses the Dolomites from north to south. Starting at Lake Braies, this hike can be tackled by staying at mountain refuges along the route. Be sure to book lodging ahead of time and visit www.dolomiti.org for hike details.
Hiking in the Dolomites (123rf.com)
Climbing
If you’d rather be climbing the rocks, basing yourself in the valleys near Cortina d’Ampezzo is ideal. There are a huge variety of sport climbing crags, especially in the Falzarego Pass, with short walk-in times that mean you can be in town for pizza and a beer every evening. Difficulty levels range from beginner routes to a high of 9a, with most climbs in the 8a-8c range. If you’re more of a big wall climber, the iconic north face of the Cima Grande, at 450 meters and 16 pitches, is a prestigious route to attempt. Other options abound, visit mountainproject.com to find your crag.
During World War I, the Dolomites formed a portion of the incongruous front line between the Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces. Battles were fought in these high mountain passes and scaling the peaks became a goal for both sides. It was a deadly war, but those fighting in the Dolomites faced the insurmountable challenge of bringing equipment and men into an area prone to rock slides, avalanches and steep cliffs. To tackle the landscape, via ferrata routes were built.
Trying a via ferrata is another experience born in the Dolomites, and a must-do when visiting. Meaning “iron path,” these mountain routes involve iron cables, steps, ladders and other equipment permanently affixed to the mountain. These paths were created during World War I, but are now used, maintained and created for sport use. For those without their own climbing gear, numerous outfitters in the area offer tours. The German language website www.via-ferrata.de is a thorough resource for finding routes.
Farm stays
Both German and Italian are spoken throughout the Dolomites as the area is part of the historical Tyrol region. Now divided between Austria and Italy, Tyrol was a unified region while part of the Holy Roman Empire of the late Middle Ages when it was ruled by various counts.
Nowadays, the high Dolomite pastures and valleys are dotted with peaceful farms and small villages. Agrotourism is popular and booking a farm stay immerses you within the landscape in a way that a hotel can’t offer. Many farm stays have small apartments inside a large house on a working farm where you can visit the cows, pet the barn cats and hike right out the front door. The Roter Hahn organization has a locally run website that specializes in connecting tourists with farm stays throughout Tyrol.
