Loire Valley ()
France’s Loire Valley is a pleasant environment to find yourself in, with lush rolling hills, vineyards, quaint towns and the long-traversed Loire River streaming through it toward the Bay of Biscay. A mild climate and bountiful nature are what have brought aristocrats to this region for centuries, leaving the landscape adorned with more than 300 extravagant châteaux.
A great home base to stay in the Loire Valley is the town of Amboise. The Château d'Amboise shrewdly occupies a hill overlooking the town, where the Gauls and Romans had previously built fortifications. In the 15th century, King Charles VII seized the castle from its owner, the Viscount of Thours, for plotting against one of the king’s favorites. The château quickly became a favored location of the royal family, and successive kings were born here. They left their mark by way of new construction on the site to make it truly extravagant. As part of his love of all things Renaissance, a 22-year-old King Francis I convinced the great Leonardo Da Vinci to live within the proximity of his court. Da Vinci even had an underground passage to get to the château from his nearby home at Clos Lucé, where today there are many displays and interactive models of his inventions. You can also visit Da Vinci’s final resting place, which is on the grounds at the small gothic chapel of St. Hubert.
On a warm day, you can partake in a Loire River dip like the locals do, plus explore the old town. Not far from Amboise, there’s a fantastic zoo called ZooParc de Beauval, which is great if you have kids who need an environment change. Be sure to try new dishes right from the source, such as fresh escargot, tender braised duck or anything savory doused in beurre blanc, which is a butter sauce made with shallots and white wine. Rosé wine is also a specialty in the valley, and worth an exploration of its different flavor profiles at wineries like Domaine de Roche Ville or Domaine de la Belle Etoile. The vintners host tours and tastings throughout the year and reservations can be made on their website.
Chambord is the largest estate in the Loire Valley, with 440 rooms and a popular tourist destination. What looks so grand now was initially dreamed up as a hunting lodge, and in 1519, construction commenced at the order of Francis I. The view from the terraces provides fantastic perspectives of the forests and fields, where it was once an escape for the royal entourage to lead hunting parties. The rooms are outfitted with many tributes to this pastime. The structure is a prime example of Italian Renaissance design; The exterior is even outfitted with a black and white fresco, but instead of using black marble like the Italians, the builders used slate.
For all the effort and funds put into this architectural marvel, ironically the king only called Chambord home for 50 days, and the court then moved on. Some of the furniture on display reflects this mobility because many pieces are surprisingly easy to disassemble. The court attendants would set up and break down rooms like a music concert would today. One of the special features in the heart of the residence that does stay put is the double spiral staircase, which was built so that people could scale two sets of intertwined stairs without ever meeting. Historians estimate that it could have been one of Da Vinci’s designs, who died shortly before construction started.
The French word for furniture is “mobilier,” referring to the portability of pieces, as popular designs that exist today were originally developed for a royal court on the go.
When you visit today, you will likely see horseback riders taking advantage of the large property and a recreated ornamental garden that is faithful to its previous 400-year-old design. There is even a pick-your-own vegetable garden that has been added. The caretakers for the estate have even restarted the organic vineyards that were previously commonplace here and now produce wine that is sold in the château’s gift shop.
This country estate has been in the same family for six centuries, and it contains beautifully maintained painted interiors, originally installed in the 17th century. On the grounds, you can watch the exciting and comedic mass of 100 hunting dogs during their mealtime from April to mid-September. I do wonder how their caretakers can tell all 100 apart! During your visit, check out the gardens and lounge on a canal boat ride or cart to explore the nature around the estate, all easily done by selecting a guided tour.
If you’re looking to be jaw-dropped by a garden, this is the place. The château is elegant, but the Italian Renaissance-inspired layout of the greenery surrounding it is what is even more mesmerizing, especially if you aspire to nurture your green thumb like me. With nearly a dozen full-time gardeners on staff, they carve complex geometric patterns and shapes out of luscious greenery, and hundreds of rose bushes, herbs and bright flowers send a vast blanket of fragrance and color as far as you’d want to go.
Pause and take a break for lunch at La Doulce Terrasse, open from April to November, which utilizes fresh produce from the château’s vegetable garden and other regional products, so you get a sample of Loire’s offerings in one sitting. Take a moment to notice the architecture of the château itself, which has been melded with the medieval keep towering over the rest of the structure. This is what remains of the Colombiers fortified castle before the château was built on top of the foundation in the 16th century. It was renamed Villandry in 1639 under the ownership of Jean Breton, Francis I’s Controller-General for War. Breton’s interest in the art of gardening had a chance to come to fruition and has had a lasting impression to this day.
