Photo by Stacy Roman ()
Below the streets of London are miles upon miles of underground rail lines and stations. During both World War I and II, citizens of London sought refuge from aerial bombing raids by hunkering beneath the ground in the tube stations. While the idea was good in theory, these stations were not built to withstand the unrelenting German war machine. In 1941, more than 50 people were killed at Bank station, after an air raid decimated the area. After an outcry from citizens for the government to do more to protect its citizens, the decision was made to build eight deep-level shelters along the Northern and Central Lines.
The underground shelter for the citizens of London. Photo by Stacy Roman
Most shelters were completed in 1942 and could house up to 10,000 evacuees at a time. However, by the time construction was finished, the Blitz had eased up. Because of the enormous cost, the government offered up space to the military. The Goodge Street deep-level shelter actually provided accommodations for American troops and served as a communications hub for General Dwight D. Eisenhower. In 1944, with renewed bombing raids, the shelters opened to the public and were put to use until the end of the war.
Clapham South
Meeting at the current Clapham South underground station on the southeast side of London, the pull of history is irresistible. The station is full of vintage signage and architecture. After checking in with our tour guide, the show began. We walked down the street to an unmarked doorway of a rather bland building. Hidden inside was a wrought-iron, double helix-shaped staircase. With the unmistakable wail of an air raid siren, we began our journey back in time.
Descending more than 36 meters, or 12 stories, below street level, the roar of the Northern line tube was eerily located above our heads. As we walked inside the shelter, there were original directional signs pointing to various areas within the tunnels, with each part of the tunnel divided into sections which could house 500 people each. We were shown the cramped sleeping quarters, complete with three-tiered metal bunk frames (evacuees were required to provide their own mattresses and linens). We also discovered the small canteen and eating area, as well as a tiny recreation room where refugees could pass the time.
Cramped sleeping quarters. Photo by Stacy Roman
After the war, the Clapham South shelter was repurposed into an inexpensive and unique lodging alternative. In order to create the illusion of more space, only two of the three bunks were used, and mattresses and linens came provided. In 1948, an influx of immigrants from former British Colonies were temporarily housed here until they could find a new place in the city to settle. However, due to a fire breaking out in a different shelter, it was realized these accommodations were no longer safe for inhabiting and were closed to the public. It was later used as a secure archive location.
Know Before You Go
Operated by the London Transport Museum, the Hidden London Tours are offered infrequently throughout the year. This particular tour is offered through November; however, there are currently six other locations to choose from as well. Only 20 spaces are available for each tour, so it does sell out quickly. Tickets include a guided tour, half-price admission to the London Transport Museum and a 10% discount on merchandise at the museum or online.
If you are claustrophobic, you may want to sit this one out. Also, there are approximately 180 stairs to climb down and back up. On the Clapham South tour, there was no elevator access. Be sure to arrive 15 minutes early for check-in. For more information, or to reserve your spot, visit www.ltmuseum.co.uk.
