Burg Pfalzgrafenstein is located on Falkenau Island in the Rhine River. It is conveniently located 90 minutes from Kaiserslautern and less than 50 minutes from Wiesbaden by car. Burg Pfalzgrafenstein is one of six toll castles in Germany. A toll castle is a castle that guarded custom posts during the Middle Ages and Early Modern Era..
Kaub, adjacent to Falkenau Island, is the smallest village in Rhineland-Pfalz with less than 1,000 inhabitants. While small in size, there is still plenty for you to eat while there.
Winegut Bahles serves up specialties from the Free State of Flashenhals such as wild boar and Wisper trout, a special local fish from the nearby Wispersee. They make their own wine and are happy to recommend the best wine to accompany your dish. Winegut Bahles closes for winter holidays so, check the website before driving out: weingut-bahles.de/weinhaus.php.
For Flammkuchen, regional favorites and a menu that changes to fit the season, Kaub-Mitte Artur’o Kitchen is the place to go. You can have a full meal, like the delectable burger topped with burrata and caramelized onions or a sweet treat like their handmade cakes with a cup of coffee. Visit their Facebook page at facebook.com/arturjudickij to see what’s on the menu now.
You can only reach the island toll castle by taking a ferry from the local town of Kaub, so we recommend you stay there for ease. While you cannot stay in Burg Pfalzgrafenstein, you can stay in another castle: Burg Gutenfels.
Burg Gutenfels was built in 1220 and now serves as a private hotel rather than a fortress. This ideal location allows you to look over the riverside town and unwind after a day of exploring Kaub and Burg Pfalzgrafenstein. For the ultimate relaxation experience, you can curl up with a book from their ground-floor library or sweat away your stress in their small sauna.
Burg Pfalzgrafenstein was constructed in 1327 as a way for feudal lords to collect tolls. It survived several battles including a 39-day siege in 1504 and the movement of thousands of troops across the Rhein in the 1800s in pursuit of Napoleon. The castle was last renovated in the 18th century and with its distinctive shape it’s easy to see why it is known as “The Stone Ship.” The short ferry ride from Kaub takes you to the island where you are on your own to explore and visit the castle at your leisure. Break out your camera on the ferry ride so you can get some great shots of the Rhein and the castle exterior as well.
The passenger ferry takes you to and from the Burg Pfalzgrafenstein from 10 a.m. to 12:45 p.m. and from 2 to 3:45 p.m. The castle is closed in December and January and can also close due to the tide, but you can plan your visit by going to https://tor-zum-welterbe.de/pfalzgrafenstein.
After you tour the castle and the island, there is still plenty to do in Kaub. You can hike up to Burg Gutenfels even if you aren’t staying there, to enjoy the views of the area from above. Transport yourself to the 1800s at the Blücher Museum where you can view art as well as military and contemporary memorabilia. If you haven’t had enough of the river, take a cruise down the Rhein; I always book with KD Cruises at k-d.com/en.