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Regensburg offers everything that its larger neighbors in Bavaria do, but at a lower cost and with fewer crowds. Avoid the chaos of larger cities at one of southern Germany’s best off-the-beaten-path destinations for Christmas cheer.
Regensburg is a city that generally flies under the radar as far as foreign tourists to Germany are concerned. If visited at all, the capital of the Upper Palatinate (Oberpfalz) region is generally tacked on as a day trip from Munich, or as a stop on a Danube River Cruise during summer months.
This is even more true during the winter. Nearby Munich and Nuremberg are beloved throughout the world for their Christmas Markets. That shows both in the crowds that swamp the markets on weekends and hotel prices to match demand. Having visited all of these markets myself, I find few things more frustrating than waiting thirty minutes to get a glühwein refill or bratwurst on a Saturday night!
Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt mug, Regensburg (Gary Brown)
Thankfully, Regensburg is the perfect alternative. It has all the Christmas cheer of its larger neighbors in a more relaxed and local atmosphere. The UNESCO-recognized Old City transforms into a winter wonderland starting in late November. Festive lights adorn shops and hang across the narrow pedestrian-only cobblestone streets. The original medieval architecture adds a historic flair to the city as a whole; Regensburg was one of the few German cities to be spared destruction during World War II. The Regensburger Dom (Cathedral) is a Gothic masterpiece seen throughout the Old City. It truly lends a fairy tale-esque aura to the city, especially when lit up by spotlights at night!
Around the compact Old City, Regensburg offers four major Christmas Markets for every taste. You can easily visit them all in a casual day of walking:
Located right in the heart of the Old City, this is Regensburg’s oldest and most lively Christmas Market. While I found it not exceptionally unique, it has all of the offerings you expect from a Bavarian Christmas Market: mulled wine, woodcut ornaments, confectioners selling gingerbread and roast almonds, and more. There are dozens of vendors here, so there are plenty of options to find a gift for friends and family back home. The main stage has live entertainment weekly on every Saturday, most Fridays, and select weekdays.
November 25, 2024 - December 23, 2024
Sunday – Wednesday: 10 am-8 pm
Thursday – Saturday: 10 am-9 pm
Regensburger Christkindlmarkt (Gary Brown)
I have mixed feelings about Christmas Markets that have an entrance fee (Why am I paying good euros for the privilege of shopping and spending more money?), but the “T&T” market goes about it the right way. The entry fee is fairly low (roughly 10 euro, discounts available), and once inside you are whisked away to a charming scene out of a Hallmark movie.
Thurn und Taxis has around three dozen vendors spread out inside and outside of a beautiful Renaissance palace. The location is picturesque, and the stalls here offer a variety of boutique culinary delights alongside traditional fair food. Plus, there is a small petting zoo for the young (or young at heart), live music, and a handful of amusement rides for children.
November 22 - December 23, 2024
Monday – Thursday: 3 pm-10 pm
Friday: 3 pm-11 pm
Saturday: 12 pm-11 pm
Sunday: 12 pm-10 pm
Regensburg Christmas Market (Gary Brown)
This market lies outside the Old City proper but is worth walking for the scenery alone. It is located across the Danube River on Regensburg’s ‘Stadtamhof’ island and offers an impressive panoramic view of the Cathedral, Stone Bridge, and Old City. If you are concerned being in an open garden beside the river means you’re exposed to bad weather, worry not – this market has several bonfire pits to keep you warm. And if that does not work, they also have nightly party music every day they’re open to help dance the cold away.
November 25 - December 23, 2024
Monday – Friday: 4 pm-10 pm
Saturday: 11 am-10 pm
Sonday: 11-9 pm
Looking for a unique gift for someone special? The Lucrezia Market may be fairly smaller, but it has the most eclectic vendors of all the markets in Regensburg. It was started in 1982 by a local association of artists and craftsmen, so no commercial brands are allowed! Shoppers will be delighted by the one-of-a-kind jewelry, handicrafts, and much more. It hosts musicians, comedians, dancers, and other live entertainers daily.
November 29th – December 23, 2024
Sunday – Thursday: 11 am-8 pm
Friday – Saturday: 11 am-9 pm
Strolling in Regensburg (Gary Brown)
Listed separately because it is outside the city center (one kilometer from the Old City), this small market is oriented towards the young (or young at heart). Many vendors here sell traditional children’s toys, but gifts for all ages are available. If you have a car or don’t mind the walk, this is a more relaxed alternative to the four larger Christmas Markets.
November 21 to December 22, 2024
Thursday – Saturday: 4 pm-10 pm
Sunday: 12 pm-10 pm
Regensburger Dom & Old Stone Bridge
The city’s biggest landmark remains under partial renovation, but the Cathedral still boasts an impressive interior you can visit. Just a few minutes’ walk away is the ‘Steinerne Brücke’ (Old Stone Bridge). It was once a major trading route across the Danube but today is a popular spot to stroll or watch street performers.
Enjoy Bavarian Cuisine
Regensburg has a surprisingly varied restaurant scene thanks to its status as a university town popular with foreign students. It is also one of the best places to enjoy traditional Bavarian food in all its carb-and-fat-loaded glory. Of particular note is the ‘Historiche Wurstkuchel.’ Only a few steps from the Old Stone Bridge, this quaint hut claims to be the oldest continuously operating sausage restaurant in the world, grilling up crispy, savory wursts for over 800 years!
Regensburg is located in eastern Bavaria, close to the Czech-German border. Regensburg can be reached by train (direct express routes to Munich and Nuremberg), bus (Deutsche Bahn transfer and FlixBus), or car (located at the intersection of A3 and A93 Autobahn).
Average Driving Time
Grafenwoehr: 1 ¼ hour
Munich: 1 ½ hour
Nuremberg: 1 ½ hour
Garmisch: 3 hours
Stuttgart: 3 ½ hours
Wiesbaden: 4 hours
Kaiserslautern: 4 ½ hours
Regensburg does not have a major airport. The nearest hubs to fly into are Munich [MUC] and Nuremberg [NUE]
