Looking for a Greek destination not overrun by tourists yet? The Messenian Peninsula in the southern Peloponnese is waiting for you. For history and castle lovers, it’s a winner. Greek castles are nothing like the fairytale towers of the Rhine or French chateaux: they are stone fortresses with rugged, crenelated curtain walls and towers viciously contested, destroyed and rebuilt for centuries. From Homer’s time through WWII, these castles have changed hands between Spartans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Franks, Venetians, French and WWII Germans. Here are four of the best. Although you can visit them all in a day, two days would be easier.   

“Archers, grab your crossbows!  ”

 

Kalamata will be your base for discovering Messenia and experiencing ordinary Greek life.  A site strategically prized from before the Trojan War, the medieval castle was built by French knights in 1205 returning from the Fourth Crusade and hungry for land. Born in the castle in 1211, William II de Villehardouin became the most successful overlord of the Frankish Principality of Achaea. From here he set out to meet Louis IX on the Seventh Crusade. The sculpted frame, which once enclosed an image of the Lion of St. Mark over the main gate, signals the Venetian additions. The walk to the castle through the old town is pleasant, and the ramparts make an excellent platform for city-views.  

Plan to spend less than an hour here. Entry fee is €2. 

The last “cruise ships” arrived at Pylos on October 20, 1827. That’s when a combined Russian, French and English fleet sailed into Navarino Bay confronting the Ottoman/Egyptian navy in what would become the last great sea battle of the Age of Sail. The rain of cannon fire from the castle at the southern end of the bay failed to turn them back. In 1572, the Ottomans had captured the castle. Wrested away by the Venetians in the 17th century, it was now back in Turkish hands. 

Outnumbered by 26 to 82 ships, the allies, nevertheless, bottled up their enemy, blocking all escape. Failing winds, restricted maneuvers and gunnery crews seasoned in the Napoleonic wars won that day. It was a decisive victory in the battle for Greek independence.  Today, the ramparts of Pylos contain one of the most attractive castles in Greece.  

Plan for one hour. The entry fee is €6. 

Methoni is one of the largest fortifications in the Mediterranean, this is the real deal.  

Methoni’s battlements and barbicans jut into the sea, guarding the western tip of the Messinian Peninsula. The remnants make it easy to envision attackers scaling the walls, fighting through successive gateways and narrow streets, while defenders maximize fields of fire eventually retreating over a causeway to the last stronghold for a final stand. The last redoubt is the impressive 16th-century Bourtzi Tower, approached through the restored Sea Gate. It is the site of those desperate last stands, gruesome executions, and locked-tight prisoners. 

If you are bringing kids, send them on a scavenger hunt to count the Venetian lions of St. Mark (there are 14). The small city that was protected within the walls is now rocks and weeds. There are no concession stands and little shade. Bring water. Limited parking is nearby. 

Plan for two hours. Entry fee is €12. 

The impressive ruins of Koroni Castle announce its turbulent history commanding the eastern end of the Messinian peninsula. Take in the shoreline view around the bases of the huge bastions and then walk up through the narrow streets of the village to enjoy the expansive views of the sea. And if you are a “House Hunters” fan, think what it would be like to live in one of the romantically set cottages on the grounds. 

Started as a Byzantine fortress in the seventh century, the castle was a significant stronghold. It’s easy to envision Frankish crusader knights riding up to the gates in 1205. In the 15th century, the Venetians converted the harbor into a major merchant port and turned the castle into its eastern “eye” guarding its empire. Imagine a full Ottoman sailing fleet attacking from the sea, a horrible massacre of retribution by the Venetians retaking the site, the Russian bombardment in 1770, and retreating Nazis blowing up one of the major bastions they had been using for ammo storage.  

Plan one to two hours. Entry is free.   

Costs reflect double rooms at the end of high-season rates.

Budget: The Rex Hotel has a central location. It is a historic building with spare but comfortable rooms. There is a public parking lot. €96 per night. 

Mid-Range: IRA-HPA City Hotel is perfect for exploring Old Town nightlife and shopping streets. It includes a spa, excellent buffet breakfast and private parking nearby. €140 per night. 

Splurge: The Grand Hotel is located on the beach promenade with a classy bar, bright rooms and splendid sea views. Private parking. €280 per night for a sea view. 

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