Bruneck in the evening (kevin - stock.adobe.com)
The best pair of woolen slippers I have ever owned come from a craft stand at the Christmas market in Bruneck (Brunico), Italy. I was admiring their bright green wool and struck up a conversation with the keeper of the little wooden hut. Much to my surprise, she made that actual pair, and many more of the slippers at the stand. They are hand-crafted, have a wonderful cork sole and a cute little edelweiss button. I loved them so much; I got a pair for all the folks on my shopping list.
Woolen Slippers (Zeitgugga6897 - stock.adobe.com)
The beauty of this South-Tyrolean Christmas market is that it retains the original market vibe. Almost everything for sale is locally crafted, cooked or created.
We visited the Bruneck Christmas Market on Dec. 6, the feast day of Saint Nicholas. That morning my kids woke up to some treats in their newly cleaned shoes, a German tradition we have adopted in our family.
Being in South Tyrol means straddling an area of Germanic heritage within the country of Italy. Here, almost everything has two names: one in German and one in Italian. It can be a bit confusing until you understand that both languages are used throughout the region.
When my family wandered downtown to the city park in Bruneck, St. Nick was there giving out more candy. We learned that his antithesis, Krampus, would be parading through town the next day. He is accompanied by many painted demons and a fire show. Krampus is said to lock up the naughtiest among us, so make sure to be on your best behavior. A nighttime visitation by hundreds of people dressed as Krampus is an alpine tradition, and one of the most popular times to visit.
Krampus visitation (elmar gubisch - stock.adobe.com)
For the rest of the season, the Bruneck Christmas market is a calm outpost in a very sporty area. The small city is scenically nestled along the Rienz River at the base of the Kronplatz, a mountain region with all manner of skiing and winter sports options. The 13th-century Brunico Castle lords over the town and houses the Messner Mountain Museum Ripa where the connection between people and mountains is the focus.
In town, the Christmas market sprawls along the main road: the Via Bastioni, an area between the original city walls and gates. The town has an interesting medieval feel with alpine touches like Christmas trees decorating every light post.
Greenery in Bruneck shops (Nicola Simeoni - stock.adobe.com)
Since the thing that sets Bruneck’s market apart is the focus on locally made products, we made a point to seek out gifts in the Tyrolean tradition and made by regional artisans. From my favorite slippers, socks and mittens made from local mountain sheep’s wool to woodworked items, there were plenty of fun things to be had. One special item was the Bruneck “Duftstadel,” a unique pine oil scent created for the city by a local herbalist. It adds a wonderful mountainy fragrance when used in a diffuser.
Just outside the westernmost city gate on the Via Centrale was another market area. A large wooden hall housed a special shopping area and exhibit of artisans working on products. We saw people knitting sweaters, crafting baskets and a massive antique weaving loom.
Bruneck Christmas lights (Andrea Izzotti - stock.adobe.com)
Food specialties in Bruneck have a local mountain flare. A thick, hearty stew in a bread bowl was my favorite, and the local Strauben, which was like a hefty funnel cake, delighted my kids. As always, there is mulled wine, or Vin Brulé and Ciccolata Caldo (hot chocolate).
The Bruneck Christmas market is one of five that claim to be part of the original set of South Tyrolean Christmas markets. The other four include Brixen (Bressanone), Sterzing (Vipiteno), Meran (Merano) and Bozen (Bolzano). By staying at a locally-run hotel or guesthouse, you can use the South Tyrol Guest Pass for free transit on buses and trains between the five towns for the duration of your stay. Visit www.suedtirol.info to find accommodations and details about the area.
Christmas market stalls (Josef Pelzer - stock.adobe.com)
