Pont de pierre, an old bridge in Bordeaux - Aquitaine, France ()
Change is afoot in France’s most historic wine region. Throughout most of the 20th century, Bordeaux wineries offered tourists little in the way of tasting rooms or vineyard hotels - not so much “Bienvenue” (welcome) as “Va-t’en!” (go away). An age-old tradition saw the vast majority of wines sold via the négociants (merchants) of Bordeaux, and so receiving visitors was viewed as an unnecessary annoyance. Essentially, these traders (rather than the winemakers themselves) acted as the region’s ambassadors. The châteaux gates were kept firmly shut.
Then, the digital revolution happened. Tech-savvy consumers want to connect with their favorite brands; even more importantly, they want to sample these delicious wines at the source. “We have to open our doors, share the stories of our wines, and show a different side to Lafite that is not all about men in suits and white-tablecloth dining,” says Château Lafite owner Saskia de Rothschild. “This change has been a long time coming,” agrees Hubert de Boüard of Chateau Angelus in Saint-Emilion. “It’s not enough to accept tourists – we need to welcome them!” True to his word, de Boüard’s family now runs several hotels and high-class restaurants in Bordeaux, including the Michelin-starred Logis de la Cadène (restaurant with rooms) in Saint-Emilion and the more casual bistro at Château La Fleur de Boüard in neighboring Lalande de Pomerol. After a long wait, you can now dine - and sleep - amid the vineyards in hoity-toity Bordeaux. Except it’s not hoity-toity anymore.
The region is also wonderfully easy to explore: A high-speed rail link whisks you from Paris in just under two hours. On arrival, head north, south, or east from Bordeaux city and you’ll be immersed in grapes. The vineyards of Pessac-Leognan are less than 25 minute drive from the downtown area, located to the south of Bordeaux. To the north are the legendary châteaux of Kirwan, Latour, and Montrose, as well as a very snazzy boutique hotel, La Maison d’Estournel. Yet, Cordeillan Bages is many people’s favorite address; It is very close to Pauillac’s most hospitable property, Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron. This fairytale castle was one of the first estates in the Medoc region of Bordeaux to dabble in cellar door sales. The more progressive owners understand that visitors want to take a few bottles home with them. And the trend is growing. Who would have predicted such avant-garde behavior in a former bastion of tradition! The last time I set foot in Bordeaux was shortly after a visit to South Africa and the contrast was mind-blowing. The Western Cape has long set its stall on welcoming tourists, with an infrastructure that has few rivals in the world of wine. However, even in the early 2000s, France was not really on board with oenotourism (wine tourism). In May 2023, I wined and dined like an 18th-century aristocrat (minus the family fortune), often less than five meters away from the vines. Two days in Saint-Emilion was the highlight of the vacation, not least because the town itself is achingly beautiful: an UNESCO World Heritage Site packed with ancient churches, charming cafes, and friendly residents. Several iconic wineries welcome wine enthusiasts, equipped with state-of-the-art tasting rooms and visitor centers. Starchy formality was not on the menu. Contemporary Bordeaux has mastered the art of delivering understated, relaxed luxury. This new breed of hotels and restaurants has redefined the very meaning of ‘posh’, combining world-class service, food and amenities and doing away with the stiffness that once plagued upmarket Gallic venues. Indeed, our winery guide was charming and approachable, with impeccable English that put my high-school French to shame.
We can expect monumental things from the under-construction hotel at Château d’Arche in Sauternes. The iconic bastion of sweet wines (it produces a lot drier styles today) already boasts a fantastic destination called Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey. According to the château owners, under-stated luxury and farm-to-table dining will be its key attractions, with sustainability and wellness at the heart of the enterprise. I can’t wait.
Meanwhile, Bordeaux’s exceptional wine museum (La Cité du Vin) continues to draw crowds, not least due to its stunning design. Today, the city falls just short of being a French Napa or Stellenbosch; ironically New World regions have had longer to work on their act, despite Bordeaux’s ancient pedigree. Progress is happening at a lightning pace and before too long, Californian vintners could have a major rival on their hands.
