In this three-pour story, come along to Bamberg for a beer-themed day. (Designed by Stripes Staff)
Beer, breweries and Benedictine monasteries have a long-standing tradition. I recently spent the day in Bamberg, Germany, or “Beer City,” where beer enthusiasts can experience a sort of pilgrimage. To start, I walked from the old town and up the rolling hills to the Michaelsburg Monastery and admired the views and peaceful grounds where monks brewed grand ideas for beer. Then, adjacent to the monastery, I toured the Franconian Brewery Museum. To end the loop, I walked back down into the city to have a meal and check out the famous Schlenkerla smoked beer at Schlenkerla Brewery.
The Michaelsberg Monastery
As I walked to the monastery through the city, I felt like I was going into a green oasis away from the hustle and bustle. Stairs and paths were lined with trees in full bloom and tall grass swayed in the wind. It felt like a personal journey as only a few other people passed by on the trail. I couldn’t resist uncapping my camera lens every few hundred steps to capture a new stunning view of the Bamberg Cathedral behind me or the tips of the spires of the monastery peeking through the trees ahead.
About halfway up the steep hill, I saw a path leading toward a fountain. I sat on a bench for a while and admired the views overlooking the city. After regaining my breath, I began the ascent up the last steep set of stairs. Ahead, at the top of the stairs, was a blue sky, a white cross and the silhouette of a man. I could tell the monastery had been designed thoughtfully to inspire reflection.
Pathway to Michaelsberg Monastery (Katie Wells)
Once I made the climb, I realized the path had taken me behind the monastery into its courtyard. To the right, a grove of trees lined a pathway to a restaurant and more look out points. To the left, was a thick stone wall curving around the monastery where you could view the gardens and Bamberg’s Old Town. Sadly, the monastery was under renovation. While I couldn’t go in, I still enjoyed venturing up and walking the gorgeous grounds as the monks often did as a form of meditation.
View of Bamberg from Michaelsburg Monastery (Katie Wells)
The Franconian Brewery Museum
Franconian Brewery Museum Entrance (Katie Wells)
The museum is right next door to the monastery. It offers an interactive tour with an audio guide (available in English) that teaches visitors all about the history of beer in Bamberg and the brewing process. Brewing in the location of the museum began in the 12th century. The tour spans over five levels beginning in the brewhouse, where it’s easy to imagine friendly gatherings of visitors clinking their pints with a boisterous “Prost!”
Franconian Brewery Museum brewhouse (Katie Wells)
After walking past a statue of Saint Lawrence, the patron saint of all trades that work with fire and heading downstairs, I was met with a large display of Bamberg beer steins and painted stein lids. My favorite featured an engraving of medieval-ish cats.
Fun Fact: It’s said that this statue was won off gardeners while playing cards.
Bamberg Beer Steins at the Franconian Brewery Museum (Katie Wells)
Statue of Saint Lawrence at the Franconian Brewery Museum (Katie Wells)
Moving through the museum, I saw plenty of memorabilia, bottles, caps and equipment used to make and store beer. There was even an ice cellar you could step into. The ice cellar was built underground and used to keep beer cold during summertime. People in Bavaria still say they are “going onto the cellar.” This is because on top of the cellar shady trees were planted and tables were put out for people to gather and enjoy a cold beer. The cellar felt a bit haunted since the automatic lights didn’t register when I first stepped through the stone doorway and was surrounded by darkness. To tell the truth, I am not much of a beer drinker. However, I did enjoyed learning about the extensive history, brewing process and cultural influence beer has had in Bamberg for centuries.
Schlenkerla Brewery
Schlenkern is a Frankish expression for “walking not straight,” much like a drunk person does. A former brewer, Andreas Graser, working at what was formerly known as “House of the Blue Lion,” had a “funny” way of walking due to an accident, or perhaps due to being drunk. He was bestowed the nickname Schlenkerla meaning, “the little dangler.” The word eventually became synonymous with the brewery. Smoked beer originates at Schlenkerla Brewery; it is a dark, bottom fermented beer and strong with a 13.5 percent original extract. The smoky flavor of the Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier is achieved by exposing the malt to the aromatic smoke of burning beech-wood logs.
Schlenkerla (Katie Wells)
The building itself felt more like a historic home than a business. At the entrance, there is a little window where guests can order just a Schlenkerla beer and then step outside to drink it. A hallway leads to the courtyard where there is a stand set up for buying the bottles of the brew along with other souvenirs like t-shirts, pint glasses and different variations of Schlenkerla.
If you would like a meal with your drink, there are sections to sit down and dine. I ordered the oven-roasted pork shoulder with potato dumplings and, instead of a beer, a Schlenklera smoked-beer brandy. The service was quick, the food was the best German cuisine I have had in my three-and-a-half years living here, and the delightfully smokey schnapps was a perfect end to the beer-themed day.
Meal at Schlenklera Brewery (Katie Wells)
