My trip along the Maginot Line

Sign written in French with a map about the Maginot

Maginot Line sign (Kristen Thoennes)

I am fascinated by WWII history. When picking out historical fiction to read, I gravitate towards that era and love learning about the different perspectives. It was probably through one of these books that I was first introduced to the Maginot Line and have been wanting to visit ever since.

The Maginot (pronounced Madge-in-O) Line, is a string of defenses and forts along the French border spanning from the north where France borders Belgium, all the way down to the south where France borders Italy. It was named after French Minister of War, André Maginot, who was a WWI hero and advocate for wounded French WWI veterans. The Maginot Line was designed to withstand tank fire and aerial bombings in anticipation of German aggression.

I was lucky to tag along when my husband’s squadron, Inter-European Air Forces Academy (IEAFA), took one of their classes there on a field trip. We visited Fort de Schoenenbourg which is in the Alsace region of France. Whether you are traveling from the KMC or Stuttgart, it will take you about an hour-and-a-half to drive to the fort.

Before heading to the fort, our group stopped at a boulangerie (French for bakery) in the nearby town of Wissembourg. There are many to choose from! We visited Le Fournil des Remparts. They have a very large selection of both sweet and savory items along with coffee and other beverages. Cards are accepted, so don’t worry if you forget your Euros.

After scarfing down our pastries, we continued to the fort, which feels like it is in the middle of nowhere and probably was even more so during WWII. There is plenty of parking and even a decent bathroom before heading inside.

The fort is massive! You would not be able to tell from looking at the entrance. After entering, you go down several flights of stairs (there is an elevator should you need it) to get down to the main tunnels where you can discover the old barracks, munition storage, kitchen, command center and more. Throughout the hallways, there are signs with information in German, French and English. You can visit without a guided tour to wander around the tunnels discovering all the nooks and crannies at your own pace. They recommend setting aside two hours to fully explore. Our group arranged for a guide to take us around. You can find information on pricing and how to book a guided tour via phone or email on the fort’s website, lignemaginot.com.

Outside the museum (Kristen Thoennes)

Some of the interesting facts about the Fort include:

- They had the first electric kitchen.

- Excellent leadership helped to ensure this fort suffered no deaths by suicide.

- There is a painting of the famous singer and dancer, Josephine Baker, who was a spy for the Allies.

- The soldiers stationed in the fort received wine as part of their daily ration.

There is so much to learn about the fort that I highly recommend taking a visit to soak it all in. If you visit during a warm month, make sure to bring a jacket. The fort stays around 55 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the year.

After our tour, we stopped back in Wissembourg for a delicious lunch at Restaurant Au Cerf. I enjoyed the Cordon Bleu with fries and my husband had the Chef’s Burger. It was on the pricey side, but very delicious!

Before heading back home, we popped across the street to L’entre Deux for some French patisseries to take home to enjoy later. I recommend the citron tarte!