Nun looking down and writing on papers. (Stripes Staff)
The abbey is dedicated to Saint Hildegarde of Bingen and is also known as Eibingen Abbey. Hildegarde (1098-1179) was 42 years old when, as she describes it, “a fiery light accompanied by lightning came down from heaven. It flowed through my brain and glowed in my chest. And suddenly the meaning of Scripture was revealed to me...” She wrote down what she saw in her vision and became known as a prophet and seer.
The abbey itself only dates back to 1900; however, its history goes back to the medieval era. The abbey is directly linked to Saint Hildegarde’s first abbey in Rupertsberg. Years of wars, plagues and famine led to the destruction of the original abbey and eventually led to the aforementioned construction of the modern building in Rüdesheim am Rhein.
The abbey expanded during World War I; yet, like many religious institutions, faced issues in World War II when the building was confiscated and all 115 nuns were expelled by the Gestapo. Luckily, the building was not destroyed during the bombing of Rüdesheim, and the abbey was returned to the nuns after the war.
Today, Sister Katharina Drouvé runs the abbey as Abbess and encourages visitors to come to this Upper Middle Rhine Valley UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are over 40 nuns working there, the youngest is 33 and the oldest is 94. While there, you can see art, shrines and gorgeous architecture.
The abbey produces wine, arts and crafts and more. Sister Drouvé only asks that you reach out beforehand to schedule talks with the nuns or to hear lectures about life at the abbey. Learn more about this at abtei-st-hildegard.de.
The onsite winery is run by Sister Thekla and Celler Master Arnulf Steinheimer. No matter whether you prefer red or white wine, the winery produces varieties of Riesling and Pinot Noir. Not sure what to try while you are visiting? Sister Thekla’s favorite is the 2023 Pinot Noir Klostersecco, a dry semi-sparkling wine. Sister Thekla and I have similar tastes.
There are also several hiking trails around the abbey that range in size and difficulty. The shortest trail is roughly seven km, and the longest is the 300 km Rheinstag Trail for true long-distance hiking enthusiasts. During the summer, the abbey also hosts concerts as part of the Rheingau Music Festival. You can reach the abbey by a cardio-fueled hike up the mountain upon which it sits; or take it easy and drive.
While in Rüdesheim am Rhein, you can do a variety of things. If you want a bird’s eye view of Rüdesheim, consider taking one of their cable car rides; you’ll see the castles, vineyards, landmarks and monuments from a unique point of view. If, like me, you aren’t so crazy about heights, take a river cruise on the Rhein. My favorite are the dinner cruises where you can eat while watching the water and landscapes along the route.
I also recommend taking a stroll down the Drosselgasse. In the days of old, this street was used to haul boat equipment and goods to the old-town from the riverside. Today, you can marvel at the half-timbered houses hosting wine taverns, specialty stores and souvenir shops.