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The Deutsche Weinstrasse, or German Wine Road, is a 60-mile-long stretch of rolling vineyards, low-lying mountains and idyllic villages. Roughly halfway between Mannheim and Kaiserslautern but running in a north to south direction, this picturesque stretch of the Pfalz wine-growing region is known for many things: pink almond blossoms in the spring, the world’s biggest wine fest in the autumn and a place to sample fine wines any time of the year.
Another charm of this beloved tourist region is its profusion of chestnut trees. “Edelkastanie,” or sweet chestnut trees, have made up part of the local landscape for over 2000 years. Brought to the region with the expansion of the Roman Empire, this versatile and nutritious nut made up an important part of the diet of Roman soldiers and also helped sustain local populations for centuries. The weather-resistant chestnut wood also served as the traditional scaffolding material for Pfalz viticulture. Between 1847 and 1862, King Ludwig I of Bavaria ordered thousands of these trees planted around his summer residence in the Palatinate, the Villa Ludwigshöhe near Edenkoben, as a testament to the area’s favorable Mediterranean climate.
There’s a vital distinction between the two types of trees referred to as chestnuts: the sweet chestnut and the horse chestnut: one makes for good eating, while the other is inedible. Sweet chestnuts, the edible ones, are enclosed in sharp, spiny pods referred to as burs and look a bit like sea urchins or pin cushions. The toxic, inedible horse chestnuts have a bumpy, almost wart-like husk with far fewer pointy bits. While the nuts within both husks are brown, edible chestnuts feature a tassel or point on the nut itself. The toxic horse chestnut is rounded and smooth, with no point or tassel. The website Chestnutgrowersinc.com features a useful photographic visual aid comparing the two types.
By the end of September and start of October, these sweet chestnuts, referred to as “Keschde” in the local Pfalz dialect, have reached maturity. The town of Annweiler am Trifels traditionally holds a market and festival known as the “Keschdefeschde” on the first weekend of October, followed by markets in Edenkoben and Hauenstein. As you might have guessed already, all these events have been postponed until next year.
While the year 2020 has lacked in festivals, the wonderful world of growing things has mercifully not stood still. By now, the grapes are mostly harvested and the winemakers are busily working their magic in the cellars. And the chestnuts are finding their way into all kinds of regional treats, from breads to sauces, soups to desserts.
Pfalz tourism authorities have designated the weeks between October 1 and November 15 as “Pfalz Chestnut Weeks,” with activities from guided hikes and e-bike tours to a number of restaurants and wineries offering menus in which chestnuts make an appearance. Nature lovers can enjoy hikes along the “Keschdeweg,” a shaded scenic path through groves of chestnuts between Neustadt an der Weinstraβe and Hauenstein. The route is nearly 40 miles long and rated as moderate in difficulty.
One small town is daring to go ahead with chestnut-related festivities. On Oct. 10 – 11, Burrweiler hosts its “Herbstlicher Spezialitätenmarkt,” featuring treats of the autumn season sold by local vendors, specialty dishes of the Pfalz and local wine. The event is being organized in accordance with the latest guidance from the health authorities, and advance booking online is essential. Two seating sessions are available on each market day, one from 11 a.m.-2:50 p.m. and the later one from 2 p.m.-5 p.m. Of the five-euro ticket cost, 2 euros is returned in the form of a token that can be redeemed on site toward the purchase of food or drink.
