The d’Orsay Museum sits on the left bank of the Seine in Paris, just across the river from the Louvre. This gem of an art museum was voted in 2018 the #1 museum in the world on Trip Advisor. The d’Orsay’s architecture alone is worth a visit, as it is housed in a former railway station. Add to that three floors of classic paintings, photographs and sculptures, and you can spend many pleasant hours enjoying the d’Orsay.

How did this museum come to be here in the heart of Paris? The building dates from 1900, when a railway station and hotel were constructed for the Universal Exhibition of the World Fair. The station thrived until longer trains built in the 1930s couldn’t fit inside. The building then served different purposes, such as becoming a mailing center for sending packages to prisoners of war during World War II. These same prisoners were welcomed home at a celebration held here.

Photo by Sharon Odegaard

Classified as a Historical Monument in 1978, the railway station underwent extensive renovation. It opened its doors as the d’Orsay at the end of 1986. One of the permanent collections includes a history of the building with period photographs. You enter down a wide staircase into the main hall, which is long and spacious and covered by a glass ceiling that lets in plenty of light. This central nave provides the perfect setting for sculptures from the second half of the 1800s. The change in the daylight streaming through the glass roof allows for constantly changing lighting of these art pieces. During opening day, the d’Orsay displayed more than 1200 sculptures previously not available to the public.

Art in the d’Orsay covers the years 1948 to 1914, and houses works of art from Monet, Degas, Renoir and much more. Galleries lie behind the walls of the central area, and the median level terraces overlook the main hall. You may want to choose one or two galleries to visit – and plan to return to see more. As this museum draws crowds, you’ll want to be strategic with your time. I’ve found the best way to enjoy the art without dealing with large groups of people is to walk straight through the main hall to the back and head up to the top floor. Many enter the main hall and mill around there for a while, so it can be remarkably calm up top. Pause to gaze out the window through the large clock on the river side for an iconic view of the city.

Photo by Sharon Odegaard

For those who would like to study a painting while drinking a cup of coffee, head to the delightful Café Campana. Golden bells hang from the ceiling in this Art Nouveau environment. Be sure to step outside to the balcony overlooking the Seine for an unforgettable view of Paris.

You’ll find a bookshop and another café as you leave the d’Orsay. Once outside, look back at this elegant former railway station on the Seine. You will likely promise yourself you’ll return. Why? It contains too much to see in one visit and will leave you wanting more. Also, art is always being added to the museum through the generosity of donors. And simply entering this bright, historic building lifts the spirits.