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On the long list of Germany’s most stunning natural attractions, the majestic Upper Middle Rhine Valley occupies one of the top spots for good reason. This land of steep vineyards and quaint villages woven together by the silver ribbon of the Rhine is perhaps best known for its castles: so many, in fact, that while transiting the area by ship or train, it can be hard to know where to cast one’s gaze. On today’s jaunt through this wildly scenic 40-mile stretch between Bingen, Rüdesheim and Koblenz, however, we’ll be snubbing the castles in favor of lesser-known but equally fun and fascinating attractions found on the banks of the fabled river.
Bingen: Hildegard of Bingen, born in the year 1098, was an extraordinary woman by any measure. Mystic, visionary, philosopher, writer, composer and Benedictine abbess, her contributions to music and natural history live on today. The Museum am Strom sheds light on the life and times of this fascinating figure who was awarded sainthood. For an outing fully dedicated to this multitalented woman, hop aboard the ferry and cross over to Rüdesheim, where you can see the Eibingen Abbey, founded by Hildegard in 1165. In addition to the church itself, you’ll find a gift shop, wine shop and cafe.
Rüdesheim: Rüdesheim is known not only for its wine. The Asbach Distillery has been producing its signature drink, Asbach Uralt, here since 1892. To learn about the distilling process and some brand history, visit this facility as part of a guided tour (15 euros, tastings included, in German only, advance booking required). If you can’t make it to the tour itself, treat yourself to a mug of Rüdesheimer coffee, prepared with theatrical flourishes beside your table in one of the town’s many cafes.
Assmannshausen: If you’ve already taken the chairlift up to the Niederwald monument in nearby Rüdesheim, try switching things up a bit by taking this old-timey chairlift up from Assmannshausen, a town known for its Pinot Noirs. From the top, it’s a relatively flat and easy walk to the monument, or a good starting point to other scenic hikes along marked trails. Care to spend the whole day in the immediate area? The “ring ticket” includes a ride on both the Assmannshausen and Rüdesheim cable cars, as well as onboard a ship.
Bacharach: Once you’ve explored the town’s major sights, including the romantic Gothic ruin of the Wernerkappelle, and enjoyed a stroll along the Malerwinkel, make way to the Kleines Brauhaus, one of Germany’s smallest breweries. The place is small but instantly recognizable due to the merry-go-round parked in the center of its beer garden. Before leaving town, be sure to sample the Riesling gelato, a house specialty of the Italia 76 Eiscafé.
Lorelei: Many would argue you haven’t really “done” the Rhine until that moment you’ve communed with Lorelei, the mythical mermaid who so dazzled sailors when she combed her golden hair and caused countless shipwrecks. While you likely won’t catch sight of the seductive siren herself, you can visit her bronze replica poised on a promontory on the Rhine. Those in need of a stretch of the legs can hike up to the craggy ledge from which Lorelei would sing her mesmerizing songs.
Bornich: It’s now time for a slight detour inland, where kids young and old will rejoice at the chance to race down the mountain on one of those contraptions known as a Rodelbahn. At just three euros per ride, the Loreley-Bob Sommerrodelbahn is an affordable treat.
St. Goar: Amongst quaint streets and shops selling wine and souvenirs is the Puppen und Bärenmuseum, or Doll and Teddy Bear Museum. This private collection of over 3,000 objects is a history of the serious business of play from past centuries to the present day. There’s even a clinic here for one’s aging inanimate companions.
Boppard: Have you always longed to walk along a Via Ferrata, a trail whose tricky bits are supplemented by steel cables and ladders? Boppard offers a version of such, but do be warned it’s a strictly “at-your-own-risk” proposition with no supervision. The Aral gas station in town rents out special harnesses that are essential to tackling the obstacles along what’s known as the Bopparder Klettersteig. At each place where the going gets tricky, an alternate route is offered, so the trail can be walked without climbing gear as well. Once atop the hill, a pit stop for cooling beverages or a bite to eat at the Restaurant Café Vierseenblick offers stunning views. Feeling lazy? Take the chairlift to avoid the uphill slog.
Koblenz: Bring a day of adventuring fittingly to its close by visiting a pair of quirky sights in this pretty city where the Mosel meets the Rhine. The Augenroller, or Eye Roller, is a face depicted under an old clock found at the Florinmarkt square. As the clock’s pendulum swings, so too do the creepy man’s eyes, and when the clock strikes the hour, he sticks out his tongue. Even better known is the Schängel, a statue of a little boy that periodically spits water at unsuspecting passersby. The base of the Schängelbrunnen fountain depicts other naughty behavior. You’ll find the mischievous lad at the Willi-Hörter-Platz.
