Poznan Cathedral at night. (Photo by Erica Fowler.)
Every moment of my time in Poznań was warm and welcoming, even when it was dark and 20 degrees Fahrenheit outside. This enigmatic city is bustling on every street. Lining the shop windows were twinkling lights, alongside glowing restaurants and bars that announced their own vibe, inviting me in from the wet-streaked cobblestone sidewalks.
I first wandered to the Old Town from my hotel, and I ran into a small Christmas market along the way, with little stalls neatly lined up. I was already prepped with Polish złoty, so I bought a mug of warm “Grzaniec Wino,” the Polish version of mulled wine. Then, I was off to see a site that everyone should visit while in Poznań!
As I approached the Old Market Square, home to the Renaissance-style Town Hall, or “Ratusz” it immediately stood out in ornately decorated red, blue and green on cream, with towers stretching upward into an evening sky. I had to come back the next day at noon, because two billy goats come out above the Town Hall’s central clock and butt heads 12 times. It is a city symbol with a funny tale behind why they were installed. From here, there’s so much to do that, depending on the time you have in the city, you may have to go the “choose-your-own-adventure” route.
For the History Buff
Inside the Town Hall is the Museum of Poznań, with a fascinating array of displays plunging you into political movements, conflicts and culture. The Greater Poland Museum of Independence oversees five branches throughout the city, such as the Museum of Martyrology of Greater Poland which was established in a previous concentration camp and the Museum of Armored Weapons in Poznań, which displays heavy tanks and weaponry used in World War II. The National Museum in Poznań houses an Archeology Museum covering European and ancient histories. Also visit Ostrów Tumski, or “Cathedral Island” as its sometimes called, in the middle of the Warta River and home to the 1000-year-old Poznań Cathedral where the first monarch of Poland was baptized.
For the Art Lover
Whatever you do, take a moment to enjoy the large murals that dot the city like a free art gallery. Be sure to check out the 3D one called Mural Śródka on the east side of the Warta River.
In the city center, the Imperial Castle is a cultural center that, despite the name, was only built in the early 20th century. Apart from events and concerts, there are art and photo galleries to walk and enjoy from Polish artists. Don’t get the Royal Castle, which is five blocks away, confused with the Imperial Castle like I did, because it is another great stop on the art trail! The Royal Castle is a reconstruction of a 13th-century fortification that was gravely damaged in World War II, and now houses a fantastic Modern Art Museum alongside the National Museum in Poznań.
For the Thrill Seeker
Venture east of the city to Malta Lake any time of the year. Malta Ski has a two-person carriage rollercoaster and toboggan run beside lots of family-friendly attractions in the summer. In the winter, you can get a little skiing and snowboarding in using their slope before you head to the big ski resorts.
If you’re not afraid of heights, check out Pyrland Park in the nearby woods, which includes a rope park and team-building activities. It’s a great spot if you’re looking for morale day options or to hang out with friends.
If you miss catching a live game, Poznań’s football team, Lech Poznań, plays at Stadion Poznań. It may not be American football, but the fandom’s fervor will have you caught up in the excitement, nonetheless. You can buy tickets at www.lechpoznan.pl.
For the Foodie
St. Martin Croissant: Stop by the Wise Cafe in the centrally located 4-star Hotel Mercure for a treat unique to Poznań. The “Marciński” or St. Martin croissant is protected by European Union law to only be made in Poznań. It is a fabulously complex pastry with a poppy seed filling, walnuts, dried fruit and one that I would go back for in a heartbeat. In the Old Market Square, the Croissant Museum hosts an interactive presentation on making a batch, and you can also buy gift-wrapped ones.
Pierogies: For some real comfort food, pierogies should be on your list. Many Poznań restaurants can help satisfy this craving for these Polish dumplings, but Pierogarnia Stary Młyn has some of the best in my opinion, served in a comfortable, rustic atmosphere.
For Taco Tuesday (or any day): For those in desperate need of fajitas and margaritas like I was, a meal at The Mexican will have you feeling like you stumbled upon a gem. I highly recommend going for your birthday; they have a deal with Zorro to make it like no happy birthday song you ever saw in the States.
For those who just need a break…
There are plenty of walkable green spaces in Poznań, but the Palm House is my favorite escape to a tropical bubble in the Woodrow Wilson Park, about a 15-minute walk from Camp Kościuszko. If you’re all about location, nearby is City Park and it is truly like a city within a city. The site of a former military barracks, it now has a dazzling 5-star hotel, a spa and 16 restaurants, so even if you don’t stay overnight, it’s an elegant area to stroll through.
An 11-minute rental scooter ride away from City Park, I instantly fell for a shopping mall called Stary Browar, not just for the shopping but the unique brick architecture from its origin as a brewery. The setting is as charming as the rest of the city in all its friendliness. Poznań is full of cultural events and delicious international fare, with a special dedication to historical storytelling, rendering it quite an exciting destination.
Tip: Practicing Polish vocabulary is great for navigation and appreciated by the locals, but to get you out seeing the sights, start with “Do you speak English?” or “Mówisz po angielsku?” (Pronounced Moo-veesh poe ang-yell-skool?) Many Poles, especially young people, know a great deal of English, and Poznań receives many international tourists, especially from the U.K. and Germany.
