Mont-Saint-Michel (Katie Wells)
“Oh no, my shoe!”
My spouse jerked his foot back as grey sand swallowed his sneaker.
My father-in-law chuckled as he stood safely back on the pavement that surrounds Mont-Saint-Michel.
I giggled and confidently danced my way over the muck, thinking with the right weight distribution I’d make it through without getting sucked in too.
Nope!
My father-in-law caught my arm as I leaped to the sidewalk, the clay-sand claiming my left tennis shoe. In true Veteran fashion, “Pop” had tied his boots tightly with precision, then waded through the deceptive muck to expertly rescue our lost shoes.
Boots covered in muck (Katie Wells)
The low-tide sand had been quite deceiving. Upon arrival, we saw tour groups returning with their ankles wet from the clay-sand and shoes hanging from their backpacks, but they had been miles away. As we ventured out the sand looked normal and we had no trouble walking across the desolate landscape that surrounds Mont-Saint-Michel.
Most of It was surprisingly dry and firm as the tide had been out for hours. It wasn’t until we were close to the causeway again that we found glossy, cracked mud-like quicksand and we learned our lesson. But it made for a good laugh, and we finally understood why those groups had gone barefoot.
Mont-Saint-Michel is a unique day trip when visiting Normandy. It has a rich history, a striking landscape, and strange tides that keep the views ever-changing. At one point, the Mont was an impregnable stronghold during the Hundred Years War. Because it’s ramparts and fortifications resisted all English assaults, it became a symbol of national identity.
To get to Mont-Saint-Michel, we drove about 45 minutes from our Airbnb in Bayeux. Once parking on the mainland in the lot by the causeway, my spouse, Pop and I opted to take the free shuttle bus, “Le Passeur.” It was a quick ride, and we only waited a few minutes for a bus to arrive. Buses are scheduled every 15 minutes. Even early in the morning, the bus was full, and crowds were already strolling around once we arrived at the esplanade at the entrance to the Mont.
As we worked our way up hills and stairs, we were met with gorgeous gothic architecture and small pockets of greenery; where some people were picnicking. We made our way up to the abbey terrace and took a few minutes to soak in the panoramic views of the sandy landscape slowly being covered in rivulets of water.
Seeing Mont-Saint-Michel at low tide is spectacular. You can take guided tours, or simply find a spot to relax and watch the landscape change as the tide comes in. Some of the highest tides occur in the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel. During certain times, especially full moons and equinoxes, the tide is stronger and surrounds the Mont with ocean water, making it look like a lone island. You might even spot a tidal bore — a wave that brings in the rising water within a few minutes. Here, you can check the tide schedule to plan accordingly ot-montsaintmichel.com.
The tide coming in at Mont-Saint-Michel (Katie Wells)
After admiring the landscape, we ducked into the abbey. Light-filled and with gorgeous green shrubbery at the center, I could understand how it had been a peaceful place for the Benedictine monks who once lived there to spend their time.
We moved on to gaze at the beautiful grand cathedral, then stopped again to take in views of the tide. Next, we made our way to ground level where shops and restaurants are located in an alley.
I heard about La Mère Poulard, which claims the “World’s Fluffiest Omelette.” Made with Normandy eggs, butter and cheese, this specialty omelet was created by Anne Boutiaut Poulard, also known as “Mother Poulard” in the 19th century.
Entering the restaurant, the scent of rich butter and egg sizzling on skillet filled my nose, I could see the chef making extra-large omelets on cast iron over open flames. My spouse and I decided to split an omelet, as the price was pretty high and they appeared large. Pop indulged in a savory beef dish. The omelet was brought out still steaming. It was delicious with a light, frothy center, that texture-wise, felt like biting into air. Although not as filling as I’d hoped, it was a unique culinary experience to try.
Famous Omelette from La Mère Poulard’s (Katie Wells)
After lunch, we made our way back to the buses. Since it was afternoon, the crowds were larger, and more people were coming and going. We decided to skip waiting in line and walked the two-and-a-half miles back to the car park. It turned out to be a stunning and easy, flat walk. fellow visitors dogs ran out into the long, green sea grass and a gentle sea-salt breeze propelled us forward. Every so often we turned around to see Mont-Saint-Michel illuminated in the sun and fading into the horizon.
Leaving Mont-Saint-Michel (Katie Wells)
