Full moon night in Istanbul ()
Flanked by the Mediterranean and Black Seas, Istanbul still thrives on its ancient roots. You can bet since the city was called Byzantium by the Greeks in the 7th century BC, this region between continents has not been quiet, but bustling with crowds from around the world. With so many places to awe at, plus an illuminating nightlife, guests will feel pulled in many directions, so it is best to prioritize what you most want to see.
Strategically pick a few activities per day because lines to major tourist sites are long, especially during the peak summer tourist season. If you want some convenience, pick up a reloadable Istanbul card for 50 Turkish Lira to pay for discounted transportation and public restrooms, which are marked orange and located throughout the city. You can hop on metro trains, buses or ferries to easily get around like a local. I would suggest sectioning off your plans by the European and Anatolian sides of the city, and when you’re ready to cross the Bosphorus Strait, you can simply hop on a ferry or use the Eurasian Tunnel by car. If you prefer to get the lay of the land before exploring on your own, taking advantage of a free or low-cost tour will be worth your while. There are so many relics tucked into squares, then bazaars and museums among domed buildings, it is easy to be thrilled, but a bit overwhelmed.
To get a sense of the city’s vibrancy, take a walk down Istiklal Street, one of Istanbul’s busiest. You can even hop on the nostalgic red tram car if your feet need a break. Taksim Square is at one end of this street with green space, monuments and the Taksim Mosque, and there you can enjoy the sights at any time of day.
Street food is also abundant, so be sure to sample rice-stuffed mussels or freshly squeezed pomegranate juice from vendors. At night, restaurants, bars and clubs are packed with locals and tourists alike. You can stop for small bites (meze) or full meals here, enjoyed with a chilled glass of alcoholic Rakı, the national drink of Turkey, turned milky with the introduction of ice cubes to the glass. There are other rich non-alcoholic sips like Ayran, a yogurt-based drink, or other sweet, pickled or fermented drinks that should be on your list if you’re an exploratory gourmand. A unique dish you may find is Testi kabab, which is a lamb dish cooked in single-serve pottery and cracked open by the server.
Before you head elsewhere, head to the Galata Tower, which stands guard to the South of Istiklal Street. It was built by the Genoese in the 14th century and has been restored so visitors can continue to climb to the top for fantastic panoramic views.
If you can, take the time to be pampered in a Turkish bath, especially if you can find a historic one like Ağa Hamamı, which has been in operation since 1454. There, you can experience a steam bath, a vigorous scrubbing massage and some tea that is offered afterward.
For a good portion of your trip, anticipate venturing around the Golden Horn, a walkable peninsula with many sites you’re likely yearning to visit. On this timelessly popular stretch of land, you may imagine a spot where a time traveler could depend upon a secret staying put for centuries (Da Vinci Code style). That imagined traveler likely would have planted it beside the one remaining fragment of a triumphal arch known as the Stone of Million. The remaining weathered stone pillar is no longer awe-striking like its neighbor, the magnificent Hagia Sophia, but what this landmark meant as the literal center of the Roman world is worth remembering. The Romans were known for their great road system used for trade, diplomacy and troop movements, and this pillar was the practical point of measure to all reaches of the Roman Empire from this same city they called Constantinople.
Of course, the Hagia Sophia should be a stop on your itinerary as one of the most culturally and historically significant sites in the city. Built in the 6th century, it has been a church, a mosque and a museum. It finally returned as an active mosque in 2020 and is considered a prime example of Byzantine architecture that was copied in future Orthodox churches and Ottoman mosques for at least a millennium afterward, when the nearby Blue Mosque was built in 1609. Under Hagia Sophia’s hallowed dome, you will find intricate mosaic work and finely sculpted columns stretching upward. If you happen to wander the upper gallery, look for the unexpected Norseman’s graffiti stating that “Halvdan” was in fact there, and represented the Varangians (the Greek word for Vikings) known to visit this city.
Get lost in the Grand Bazaar for a while, and if you intend to buy a souvenir, be sure to politely bargain the price with the vendor, as it is seen as a tradition. The trove of hanging lamps, scarves, serve ware, rugs and spices will have you wishing you had more room in your luggage.
Topkapı Palace, built in the 15th century during Ottoman rule is a dream-like residence turned museum, with opulent rooms on display. The grounds of the Palace have a great view of the Bosphorus and is near several museums, where tickets can be purchased online at www.muze.gov.tr, like the Istanbul Mosaic Museum.
In Istanbul’s Anatolian district of Üsküdar, the Maiden’s Tower rests amid coastal waters. This tiny strip of land supported a customs point for ships crossing into the Black Sea as far back as the 5th century BC, and its roles followed as a defense tower, a lighthouse and even a poets refuge. The present building is iconic to Istanbul and would be perfect to look out on for a final sunset, where you can be sure to spoon up pistachio baklava topped with ice cream at a nearby café.
