View of historical buildings at the Hessenpark, Germany (Kat Nickola)
Anything having to do with the Middle Ages can be called medieval, and in Germany that translates to a millennium of history. Following the withdrawal of Roman occupiers in 476 AD, central Europe was settled by Germanic tribal groups. It became a time of slow change, with daily life shifting over a thousand years from small village farming to large feudal estates and then the development of towns and cities.
Fragmented states led by local nobility came under varying control of empirical domains like those of Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Empire. Castles were built for protection, knights enlisted for defense and peasants were required to work the land.
It was a fascinating time and it’s fun to experience both sides of life: from the castles of nobility to the daily grind of the lowly commoner.
Interior of a historic German home at the Hessenpark. (Kat Nickola)
In parts of Germany, it seems like there is a castle on every hilltop. That is because wealthy landowners began fortifying their estates as their power developed into a ruling noble class. This was especially needed during periods of unrest like the 9th and 10th centuries as the Carolingian Empire crumbled.
Most medieval German castles now lie in ruins. Burg Eltz near the Mosel River is one of very few that have remained intact since the Middle Ages. Other incredible medieval fortifications like Heidelburg Castle or Nuremburg Castle have been rebuilt after falling into ruin. Though they look old, many fancy castles like Neuschwanstein and Lichtenstein Castle are not medieval; they are from the 1800s when castle creation was all the rage for rich Germans who romanticized the Middle Ages.
But let’s get back to the ruins! As an archaeologist, nothing could be more fun to me than a sunny day out traipsing over fallen blocks and exploring 800-year-old tunnels, for free.
South of the KMC is one of my favorite ruins to visit. Above the town of Dahn, three subsequent castles were built atop a cliff. They blend together like one giant fortification. With lots of stairs and secret passageways, it is fun (even for my teens) to imagine life for the nobles who called this castle home.
We like to visit the site from west to east, which begins with the oldest castle: Tanstein. The entire complex has fascinating spaces carved right out of the rock that are perfect for storytelling. The center castle, Grafendahn, appears to emerge from its sandstone cliff base requiring a stair climb up into it. Lastly, we walk along the plateau’s edge and up to the roof of Altdahn for an impressive view across the forest. In the warm months, we cool off with an ice cream or beverage from the small biergarten nestled near the entrance.
Three medieval castle ruins in Dahn, Germany share a clifftop. (Kat Nickola)
Medieval castle ruins in Dahn, Germany. (Kat Nickola)
Entering the Altdahn castle tower. (Kat Nickola)
Free castle ruins (Burgruine) to explore
Schmidtburg | A great day trip from Spangdahlem, Wiesbaden or the KMC area, Schmidtburg is a large ruin perched atop a cliff and secreted away in a river valley. As a bonus, you can camp in the ruins by booking a site at www.soonwaldsteig.de.
Waldeck Castle | About a half hour north of Grafenwöhr, Waldeck is an extensive ruin with a special chapel area. It is also perfectly positioned on the hill for an amazing 360 degree view of the region.
Reußenstein | East of Stuttgart, this picturesque ruin still has walls nearly four floors high, interesting rooms to explore and views down the valley. Plus, there is a nearby waterfall that is easy to hike to.
While life for the nobility is fascinating, let’s be real and assume that most of us would have been, at best, medieval commoners. We would have farmed the land and paid our lord in produce or meat; after all, it is his land.
To get a taste for what this life may have been like, I visited the Hessenpark north of Frankfurt. This open-air, living-history museum has authentic historical buildings from across Hesse, many of which were built in the later Middle Ages. My family wandered in and out of traditional half-timbered farmhouse, while I marveled at the kitchens with their massive open fireplaces and hanging cauldrons.
There are displays that explain agricultural practices, plus heritage species of farm animals like geese, massive pigs, goats, sheep and donkeys. We watched as a weaver crafted baskets and chatted with a washerwoman as she hung out her laundry.
From the agricultural area, we made our way to the market square to grab a snack from the little bakery. It was market villages like these that developed into the colorful, scenic towns and cities of the 17 and 1800s. That medieval heritage is still tangible in modern quaint walled towns like Rothenburg ab der Tauber in northern Bavaria, Bacharach along the Rhine River or Esslingen near Stuttgart.
Visiting the Hessenpark to experience German rural life back in time. (Kat Nickola)
Authentic historical buildings have been reconstructed at the Hessenpark. (Kat Nickola)
The Hessenpark offers a glimpse into rural life in Germany back in time. (Kat Nickola)
A washerwoman shows her skill at the Hessenpark in Germany. (Kat Nickola)
Sheep graze as part of the herd of protected heritage species at the Hessenpark in Germany. (Kat Nickola)
Other Open-Air Museums
Campus Galli | Visit this medieval monastery village south of Stuttgart to see workers actively building using technology from the Middle Ages. www.campus-galli.de
Fränkishces Freilandmuseum | North of Ansbach, this large museum has a special mini medieval village in addition to other historical hamlets from the area. www.freilandmuseum.de
Ukranenland | Focusing on the very early Middle Ages, this museum in the north of Germany recreates a pre-Christian waterside tribal village. www.ukranenland.de
