Town of Besigheim on a sunny day (Joe LaForest)
Just 30 minutes north of Stuttgart by train, Besigheim is one of Baden-Württemberg’s best-kept secrets. It’s a perfectly preserved medieval town nestled between the Neckar and Enz rivers.
Founded in the 12th century and fortified by the 13th century, this former walled stronghold is now a postcard-worthy destination known for its half-timbered houses, hillside vineyards and quiet charm.
With its cobblestone alleys, flower-draped balconies and panoramic views, Besigheim offers a peaceful day trip that feels like stepping into another time, without straying far from the city.
I stepped off the MEX18 regional train, followed the signs for “Altstadt,” and was almost immediately met with quiet cobblestone streets and medieval watchtowers. The Schochenturm, a 13th-century guard tower, stood tall above the rooftops. Just around the bend, I found the Bugle Tower, built during the same era. This five-story structure features vaulted ceilings, a Romanesque fireplace and even a medieval latrine chute—details that speak to the town’s remarkable preservation. The stone exterior still bears the etched marks of its original masons.
A few minutes later, I was beneath blooming magnolia trees casting soft shadows against the town’s sandstone walls. Spring had arrived early in Besigheim, and the contrast between ancient stone and pink blossoms made for the kind of scenery that practically forces you to slow down.
The aroma of roasting meats and fresh bread led me toward the market square. Timber-framed houses leaned inward, and every few feet revealed something worth a photo—arched doorways, hand-painted signs or families enjoying a midday snack in the sun.
I settled into a table outside Ratsstüble, a family-run restaurant just steps from the town hall. The timbered building dates back to the 1500s, with flower boxes under the windows and an umbrella bearing the name of the local vineyard: Felsengartenkellerei Besigheim.
Empty beer bottle next to a mug of foamy cold beer (Joe LaForest)
Surrounded by steep vineyard-covered hillsides on nearly all sides, the town feels naturally cradled by wine country. I ordered a Tegernseer Hell, cold and crisp, which paired perfectly with the atmosphere: quiet laughter, distant church bells and the occasional cyclist rolling past.
After lunch, I made my way to the banks of the Enz River, following a portion of the Panoramarunde Niedernberg trail. The terraced vineyards rose beside me, each row carefully maintained, with hand-built stone walls climbing the hills.
I never reached the overlook platform itself, but I could see it above, tucked into the hillside. Even from below, the views were rewarding featuring sloping vines, sun-dappled rooftops and the stillness of a town content with its own rhythm. Everything around me felt built to endure and worth lingering in.
Besigheim isn’t about museums or tour buses. It’s about texture and tone, walking without purpose, and discovering small surprises: a red British-style phone booth turned into a book exchange, a wrought-iron sign swaying in the breeze, a bakery tucked behind ivy-covered walls.
Red British-style phone booth next to a red and white house (Joe LaForest)
Sometimes, the best travel moments aren’t planned. Besigheim reminded me that some places are meant to be walked slowly, seen quietly and remembered long after the day ends.
Getting there: Besigheim is about 30 minutes by direct train (MEX18) from Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof. The old town is a short walk from the station.
When to visit: Spring and fall are ideal for vineyard walks and pleasant weather.
Don’t miss: Panoramarunde vineyard trail, the town square and the 13th-century Schochenturm.
Where to eat: Ratsstüble (Marktplatz 3) for hearty Swabian food and local wine, Bottega Ristorante for rustic Italian.
Cherry blossom in front of a castle tower on a sunny day (Joe LaForest)
Joe LaForest is a U.S. military veteran living in Germany. He has traveled to more than 40 countries and enjoys exploring historic towns, seasonal festivals and quiet trails that offer a break from the everyday pace of life.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of Defense.
