Alhambra palace court ()
Perched atop a foothill of the Sierra Nevada mountains in southern Spain is the legendary Alhambra. From this palace, sultans led the Emirate of Granada through a time of peace and prosperity. It is a masterpiece of Islamic architecture.
The name Alhambra means “red fortress.” It is a massive complex of palaces, governmental buildings and gardens that were built and remodeled over the 13th to 15th centuries. The Nasrid Palaces are the highlight of a visit and feature room after room of breathtaking carved arches, delicately decorated domes and peaceful courtyard pools and fountains. Open spaces and gardens play a key role in the overall design of the Alhambra and those in the Generalife, the summer palace, are the most expansive. The oldest part of the Alhambra complex is the Alcazaba fortress. It is still primarily a ruin, but the towers are accessible and give a sweeping view over the city.
In the 8th century, the Umayyad Caliphate was the first Muslim state to spread far west into northern Africa and the Iberian Peninsula, which they named al-Andalus. Over time, the caliphate and its successors, sometimes referred to as the Islamic Empire, fractured. In the 11th century, al-Andalus came to be ruled by subsequent smaller caliphates based out of North Africa. This historical connection to Berber traditions would lead to the Alhambra’s intricate Moorish architectural style. As those caliphates crumbled, a power vacuum paved the way for Ibn al-Ahmar to become Muhammad I, the first Sultan of the Emirate of Granada.
This newly independent country needed a capital. In 1238, the Sultan climbed to the top of a hill called “al-Hamra,” or “the red one” and declared it the location for his palace. A city grew up around the palace and Granada became a place of culture and learning. While the rest of Europe was dragging itself through the Dark Ages, in Granada poetry and science progressed. There were elite schools for medicine, writing and law.
Alhambra perched on a cliff above Granada ()
In January 1492, however, the final sultan surrendered Granada to the Catholic Monarchs. It was not defensible against the power of the Reconquista led by King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castille. Granada was the final Islamic state to fall to the Spanish, leaving the King and Queen time to turn their efforts toward overseas exploration and conquest. They gave Christopher Columbus support for his voyages in April. From then, the Alhambra was owned by Spanish royals and nobles until Granada was occupied by Napolean’s army. In 1870, it was declared a national monument and has been the subject of restoration and archaeological research.
When visiting the Alhambra, look out for marvels of engineering that would have been unheard of in most of Europe in the Middle Ages. In the Court of the Lions there are four rivers and four gardens symbolizing paradise. The water converges on a fountain perched atop the backs of twelve lions. The scientific planning it took to bring water to the palace is still considered an engineering marvel. A dam on the Darro River diverted water into the Acequia Real, a six-kilometer canal taking the water to the hillside. A series of waterwheels then raises it up, and a network of plumbing keeps the water flowing through the gardens, pools, and palace rooms. The brick-lined canal can still be seen in the Generalife gardens along with brick-arched roofs of ‘ajibes’, or fresh-water cisterns.
Intricate carving and arches at the Alhambra, Granada, Spain ()
In the halls of the Nasrid Palaces, look up into the domed ceilings to see the intricate ‘muqarnas.’ These geometric elements resemble honeycomb fractals that protrude down like stalactites from the dome. There is mathematical art everywhere. The horseshoe arches, or ‘alfiz,’ are supported by columns. The ‘mashrabiya’ lattice over windows allows hot air to rise and exit while keeping the room cool and shady. Tiled mosaics called ‘alicatados’ dominate the walls of the Mexuar Hall and show off the skill held by local craftsmen.
The Alhambra is located in the city of Granada, Spain. Leave an entire day to explore the palatial complex, and book tickets ahead of time. There are many third-party websites offering tickets and tours. To book at the official page and explore on your own visit: www.alhambra-patronato.es/en. The Alhambra General ticket can be used all day, but you will need to select a specific entry time for the Nasrid Palaces. Your ticket allows you to access each palace a single time, but you can come and go from the complex. There is a small café inside and plenty of restaurants near the two entrances. Be sure to dress for the weather and stay hydrated.
