Cortina d’Ampezzo (Emily Sinovic)
“Thank God! Phew! We arrived alive!” These are the words you likely say after a few hours of passenger air-breaking, heavy sighing and light praying because you thought those last couple of hours on the windy, dark, snowy mountain passes might be your last. Ok, that may be a little dramatic, but in the moment, it sure feels that way. Especially when Italians drive as if speed limits and lanes are just suggestions. However, despite the stressful drive coming from Bavaria, a trip to Cortina d’Ampezzo is a must!
History
The town of only 6,000 residents has a reputation for stunning beauty and Italian style, earning Cortina d’Ampezzo the nickname, “The Queen of the Dolomites.” It’s been the hangout of The Who’s Who of the Jet Set crowd for decades now. Walk into many restaurants and you’ll see the black-and-whites of Bridget Bardot and her kind hanging on the walls. It became a hot spot for A-listers around the time it hosted the Winter Olympics in 1956. The town will have the repeat honor of hosting the Winter Olympics in 2026. After spending just a few hours there, you understand why everyone keeps coming back.
Olympic downhill ski run Olimpia 1 in Cortina d’Ampezzo in Dolomites, Italy. (Von kilhan - Adobe Stock)
On the Slopes
Surrounding the quaint but fashionably chic town is a paradise for skiers, snowboarders and anyone up for a hike with a view you will not find anywhere else. All the slopes total about 87 miles and make up part of the Dolomite Superski circuit. There are multiple gondolas and lifts to three main spots at the base of the mountains, all within a 10-minute drive or a free shuttle from multiple city stops scattered throughout the town.
Don’t worry, you don’t need to be an Olympian to hit the slopes. There are several easier runs, one called “Baby,” so you know you’re safe. The easy runs are limited though. I found the blue runs were easy in some sections and challenging in others. A heads-up: “blue” runs in Europe are supposed to be equivalent to an American “green” run. “Red” runs in Europe are supposed to be equivalent to “blue” runs in the States. But there were multiple reds that looked death-defying and some blues that would push the skill level of an average skier. Of course, there are also black runs. Just looking at those runs from the ski lift had my heart pounding. You’ve been warned.
While you’re on the mountain, make sure to take a breather and soak up the views from one of the delightful restaurants with outdoor seating on a bluebird day and views for miles. From homemade oven-baked lasagna and spaghetti bolognese to refreshing local beers and wines, the dining experiences on the slopes of Cortina are hard to beat. The prices are reasonable and there’s no rush. Whether it’s a quick bite and drink or an entire afternoon lounging on the sunny deck, these mountain pit stops are the perfect place to refuel before heading back down the slopes.
Off the Slopes
If you want a break from the slopes, consider visiting Cortina’s Natural Park d’Ampezzo Dolomites. It’s a nature-lover’s dream. Established in 1990, the park covers about 27,000 acres. Paths and trails criss-cross the entire region, allowing visitors to enjoy the local wildlife. There are approximately 160 animal species including eagles and ibex. If one day of exploration isn’t enough, you can stay overnight in one of the 11 alpine huts located within the park.
However you spend your day enjoying the outdoors, you will work up an appetite and heading into town for dinner will not disappoint. For the foodies who don’t mind spending a little extra for a fine dining experience, you have your pick of seven different Michelin star restaurants, all with their unique takes on Austrian-Italian cuisine. If a Michelin star spot isn’t your scene within your budget, Cortina is bursting with much more moderately priced pizzerias, pubs with local Tyrolean dishes and plenty of bars where you can spend your night sipping delightful aperitifs, beer and wine.
Where to Stay
Do some digging before booking a hotel. If you would like to spend a month’s mortgage on a couple of nights at the hotel, Cortina has several historic, epic resorts neighboring the ski lifts. You could also drop a lot of money staying at one of the chic see-and-be-seen spots in the center of town. If you’re looking for more reasonable price points, there are several options starting at about $140 per night. The less expensive stays are not in the center of town, but less than a half-mile walk away, and they offer a free city ski shuttle taking you to and from the lifts. When booking, also look for the breakfast included option. Several of the more reasonably priced stays included breakfast, saving you time and money.
How to Get There
If you’re coming from Bavaria, driving is the most practical option. Pro tip: drive during the day. The roads seem much less treacherous with a little daylight. There are several options if you don’t want to drive. There is no train station in Cortina, but there are several bus companies offering connections to Cortina from the nearest train station, located in Calalzo di Cadore. The closest airport to Cortina is the Venice Marco Polo Airport, about 70 miles away. You can get to Cortina using a combination of public bus and train, but it will take more than three hours. Private booking options are also available for shuttle transportation.
However, you get there you won’t regret the effort. If you’re trying to get there for ski season, you have plenty of time. The slopes are open until late April.
