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When visions of gingerbread dance in your head, the backdrop of the scene might well resemble the skyline of Nuremberg all ablaze in Christmas lights. And rightly so, for this is the homeland of the beloved seasonal treat. But beware not all cookies are created equal.
Lebkuchen were first baked by Franconian monks as far back as the 14th century. Nuremberg, as a former Free Imperial City located at the intersection of ancient spice and trading routes, benefited from the comings and goings of traders bearing exotic spices the likes of cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg and others, along with almonds from more southern climates. Secret recipes for Nuremberg gingerbread were handed down through the generations and even today, exact ingredients remain closely guarded secrets.
Like Lubeck’s marzipan and Black Forest Ham, Nuremberg Lebkuchen are recognized within the European Union as a product enjoying “protected geographical indication” status and as such, can bear the coveted EU seal.
The rock stars of the gingerbread scene are those cookies known as Elisenlebkuchen, named after a daughter of one of the city’s master bakers. As the legend goes, in the year 1720, a young girl named Elisabeth fell seriously ill. Her desperate father made an exceptional creation of hazelnuts, fresh honey and spices, and after eating it, she quickly recovered. Regulations state that Elisenlebkuchen cannot contain any more than 10% flour and must be made up of at least 25% nuts. Some premium versions of Elisen contain no flour at all and nearly 50% almonds and nuts.
Lebkuchen comes in all flavors imaginable, from dark-chocolate glazed biscuits to an almost juicy, roasted apple variation. It’s often sold in pretty tins adorned with images of the ancient towers and steeples of Nuremberg, meaning that once the gift is gone, the tin can be reused to store less noble types of baked goods until Christmas rolls around again.
Travel tip: Should your holiday travels take you to Nuremberg’s famed Christkindlmarkt, make way to the bakery of Fraunholz Lebkuchen, where sweet treats are available at the source.
