Don’t overlook Canterbury, just 90 minutes by train from London. (Luigi Petro (Adobe Stock))
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If you are stationed in Europe, visiting London is probably on your bucket list. But don’t overlook Canterbury, just 90 minutes by train from London. It is the birthplace of Elizabethan playwright and poet Christopher Marlowe, best known for “Doctor Faustus,” and for the murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket at the cathedral altar in 1170. However, I soon discovered that there is so much more to this charming city.
If you drive into the city you will go through or around the historic Westgate Towers, the only surviving gate from Canterbury’s medieval city walls, and England’s largest remaining medieval gateway.
Legend says King Henry II walked barefoot through this gate in penance after accepting responsibility for the murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket. The Towers were built in 1380 upon the site of the former Roman gate to protect Canterbury from a French invasion during the Hundred Years’ War. At 18m (59 feet) high, the fortress has played many roles over the years: city prison, archive and air defence during both World Wars before becoming a museum in the early 20th century.
The Towers were built in 1380 upon the site of the former Roman gate to protect Canterbury from a French invasion during the Hundred Years’ War. (Karen Blakesley)
The rooms display artifacts showcasing the history of policing, war, crime and punishment, and include tales of escape attempts and famous inmates. I discovered that Robert Cushman, one of the Pilgrim fathers, was briefly imprisoned in Westgate Towers when it was a jail. In 1603, he was arrested for distributing religious writings that questioned Church of England doctrine. After his release, he joined others who relocated to Leiden, Netherlands. In 1620, he sailed aboard the Speedwell alongside the Mayflower.
As you climb to the roof, look for an unusual feature: Westgate’s spiral staircase turns counterclockwise, the opposite direction to most defensive structures. Don’t miss climbing the 61 steps to the roof where you can enjoy incredible views of the city and famous cathedral.
If visiting the Towers has left you wanting to see more, visitors can choose from three escape room experiences including one inside the original 1829 jail cells.
If you drive into the city you will go through or around the historic Westgate Towers, the only surviving gate from Canterbury’s medieval city walls, and England’s largest remaining medieval gateway. (helivideo (Adobe Stock))
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If after all that exploring you want something to eat, call into The Pound Pub next door. It serves traditional British pub fare and local beers inside beautifully refurbished holding cells. A vintage butler call panel lets guests order another round without leaving their table.
Across the street, Felons serves excellent coffee, local wines and an unforgettable brownie topped with caramel-coated cornflakes. Felons is also the site of the 18th-century home of James Six.
In 1780, Six invented the maximum-minimum thermometer, enabling temperature ranges to be accurately recorded for the first time. Versions of his “Six Thermometer” are still used today in climate science and greenhouse horticulture, and one can be seen on the wall in the coffee house. He is buried in the graveyard of the Holy Cross Church across the road.
No visit to Canterbury is complete without seeing the famous cathedral. Founded in 597 A.D. by St. Augustine, Canterbury Cathedral has survived Viking raids, devastating fires in 1067 and bombings from the German Luftwaffe in 1942.
No visit to Canterbury is complete without seeing the famous cathedral. (4kclips (Adobe Stock))
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In 1170, the church played an important role in English politics, and Archbishop Thomas Becket had excommunicated several bishops who backed the king over the rights and privileges held by the Roman Catholic Church.
Frustrated with the interference, King Henry II is widely believed to have said, “who will rid me of this troublesome priest?” Seeing an opportunity to impress the king, four knights rode to the cathedral and, when Becket would not reinstate the bishops, and resisted the knights’ attempts to take him to the palace by force, they attacked him with their swords, killing him.
The public was outraged. The king helped restore public order and peace by performing public penance at his tomb in the cathedral, and the Catholic church’s influence over secular rulers was restored. The cathedral remains one of England’s most significant religious landmarks, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
End your day with a boat ride along the River Stour. (Karen Blakesley )
End your day with a boat ride along the River Stour. Passing historic, timber-clad houses, beautiful gardens and graceful swans, it’s one of the best ways to view Canterbury from a different perspective. Companies such as Westgate Punts will do the hard work, leaving you free to relax with a glass of Kentish wine and enjoy the scenery.
There is so much more to this charming city. (Karen Blakesley )
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of War.
