Two camouflage-clad goats at the entrance to U.S. Army Garrison Poland headquarters at Camp Kościuszko (Mike Trusz)
So, you just stepped off the plane at Ławica Airport and are ready to begin your overseas tour in Poland’s fifth largest city? (Or, perhaps you are just here for a visit). Welcome to Poznań! Explore its incredibly rich history and discover why Poznań might just be the “GOAT” of Polish cities!
Poznań is one of the oldest cities in Poland. It was a major fortified settlement of the Polans — the Slavic tribe that eventually unified the country and gave Poland its name. The story of Poznań starts in Ostrów Tumski, or Cathedral Island. It’s also here that we’ll begin our journey through the city. It’s on Cathedral Island that Mieszko I, Poland’s first historical ruler, held court.
After Poland became Christian in 966 CE, the gothic Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, which gave the island its name, was erected here. Mieszko I and his son Bolesław I Chrobry, Poland’s first king, are buried in the spectacular neo-Byzantine Golden Chapel at the apse of Poznań’s cathedral. When visiting, make sure to carry a 5 złoty coin, as the chapel’s lighting system is operated by a coin machine.
Interior of the Golden Chapel (Mike Trusz)
Poznań flourished during Poland’s golden age in the high renaissance, when the country was Europe’s largest and stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. We can witness this first-hand as we make our way to the city’s Old Town Market Square. Here we are immediately met by the city’s spectacular Old City Hall. This majestic edifice, immediately recognizable by its intricate frescos and tall clock tower, was designed by Italian renaissance architect Giovanni Battista di Quadro and constructed in 1560.
You’ll want to plan your visit to the market square at noon, when two mechanical goats emerge from the clock tower and butt heads 12 times. Legend has it that a young chef burned a roast deer meant for a celebratory feast marking the installation of the tower’s clock. He left his meal cooking while he ventured to see the object his dinner was celebrating. Upon his return, the meal was already ruined. In a panic, he stole two goats from a nearby pasture to replace the main course. The goats escaped in the town hall and climbed to the tower, where they began headbutting in front of the governor, mayor, and guests gathered for the clock’s unveiling. This caprine spectacle drew laughs from the spectators below and, instead of punishment, the chef was pardoned — and the goats became part of Poznań’s identity. Today, you’ll spot goat imagery all around town. You’ll even be greeted by two camouflage-clad goats at the entrance to U.S. Army Garrison Poland headquarters at Camp Kościuszko.
Poznań was part of Prussia, and later Germany between 1793 and 1918. You can notice this history as we make our way from the old to the new town. Walking through the new town’s main thoroughfare, Saint Martin Street, we arrive at the imposing Imperial Castle.
People walking around Poznań Square on a sunny day (Mike Trusz)
The castle was constructed between 1905 and 1910 as the local residence for German Emperor Wilhelm II. Due to its purpose as the Kaiser’s residence, its striking Germanic neo-Romanesque character differs significantly from the Polish renaissance and baroque style of the old town. Wilhelm visited the castle on only two occasions, as eight years after its construction, Poznań became part of a renascent Poland, and the Kaiser was forced to abdicate the German throne at the conclusion of the First World War. Today, the magnificent structure serves as the city’s culture center and is open daily to tourists. The highlight of the tour is Wilhelm’s oversized eccentric imperial throne, which rests on two marble elephants and is etched with quirky Viking runes. It is also wide enough to fit four people!
While on Saint Martin Street, be sure to try the city’s signature Saint Martin’s Croissants (Rogale Świętomarcińskie). These iconic desserts are large croissants filled with a rich white poppy filling. While the croissants are available all around town and the region, they certainly taste best on their namesake street! Even better, try one during the Feast of Saint Martin, which falls on Nov. 11, the same day as both Poland’s Independence Day and Veterans Day in the U.S., and enjoy the annual Saint Martin’s Day Parade marching down the patron’s street while munching on this local delicacy.
Saint Martin’s Croissants (Rogale Świętomarcińskie) in a display case (Mike Trusz)
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of Defense.
