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Small child looking away from camera towards the Old Town Warsaw area (Catherine Torres)
Poland is a resilient country. It has been invaded and parceled off among its neighbors several times. Its people have welcomed masses of refugees over the centuries. This constant flow of people and rulers created a melting pot within the country and especially within its modern-day capital, Warsaw.
In Warsaw, you will find a 19th-century fortress from the city’s time as part of the Russian Empire, monuments honoring brave Polish fighters from World War II, relics of Soviet governance, forward-thinking urban planning, and a Polish penchant for good food, whether traditional, modern or a fusion of both.
In a city like Warsaw, every kind of traveler can find something to enjoy. Here are some ideas to get you started on a more light-hearted tour of Warsaw.
Child eating an ice cream cone in front of buildings in the Old Town area (Catherine Torres)
Check out the Old Town. Here you’ll find a rebuilt central square surrounding a statue of a mermaid brandishing a sword. Since 1622, Warsaw’s city symbol has been this mermaid. You’ll spot her on flags, painted on buildings, in statue form, and even on the municipal utilities covers. There are a few variations of her existence: Some say she is the sister of the Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid and they separated in the Baltic Sea; others say she helped a lost prince and he founded the city in her honor. Another story tells of the mermaid releasing fish from fishermen’s nets. They planned to trap her, but upon hearing her sing, they fell in love. Whatever the story, the mermaid is typically depicted with a shield and sword, ready to defend the city and its people.
If you exit the square to the southeast along Jezuicka, and walk a couple of blocks, you will come to the Dzwon na Kanonii, or the wishing bell. There are a few renditions of the fairy tale that goes along with the bell, but they tend to end with knocking on the bell and circling it a number of times for your wish to come true.
The Old Town is surrounded by a brick red fortress wall that makes for a nice walk. You’ll get views of the Vistula River and eventually end up by the palace, Arkady Kubickiego. If you walk the entirety of the wall, there is a statue of a little boy dressed for battle. Keep in mind, this is a somber statue honoring the children who fought in the Warsaw Uprising.
For more walking, consider heading down the Royal Route. This southward route was used for communication and now features numerous historical buildings and statues. Try finding a good tour book (I recommend “Rick Steves”) or consider hiring a local tour guide to help explain the significance of the sights you’ll see.
If you have children or simply need to sit down, turn off the route for a bit into Ogród Saski, Saxon Garden, a leafy park with a playground. Depending on where you enter, you’ll pass the square Pope John Paul II gave a sermon during one of his visits and the tomb of the unknown soldier.
Continuing on your walk, aim for Nowy Swiat, a good shopping and restaurant street, and veer towards the Palace of Culture and Science, a gift from Stalin when Poland was part of the Soviet Union.
If you’re all walked out, check out the rooftop garden on the University of Warsaw’s Library. It is a horticultural feat of engineering. There are great views of the city. A few blocks away, there’s Designer Outlet, a former tractor factory that’s been converted into a mall and food court—ideal if you’re with a group of people who all want to eat something different.
Just behind the former factory is the Copernicus Science Centre. It features multiple hands-on educational science exhibits. There’s a lot to see, and plenty of English placards to keep non-Polish speakers engaged.
Banksy painting on a wall in Praga (Catherine Torres)
Want something different? Take a bus across the river to the neighborhood of Praga and walk the gritty streets in search of inspiring street art among the soviet era apartments. There’s an app for the bus system that lets you buy tickets, just be sure to scan the QRC once you’re onboard to activate a ticket. For the graffiti art, look online for articles describing some of the pieces (see if you can find the Banksy), or hire a local guide to give you an insider’s look. Be aware that some of the more notable pieces are spread out, so plan a route beforehand. Also, be wary of asking ChatGPT, its route might be inefficient.
If you’re visiting in the summer on a Sunday, head to the Frderyk Chopin Monument in the Royal Łazienki for a free Chopin concert. It’s quite the experience being in a sunny park surrounded by a quiet crowd while listening to classical piano music.
Make sure you get some pączki, Polish donuts filled with either jam or cream (try the rose jam).
If you have breakfast, order eggs with kielbasa (it’s simple but delicious).
For lunch and dinner, a safe choice for kids is cutlets (inspired by Austrian schnitzel), and Polish pierogis (Ruskie are the potato-filled ones, but please try various fillings).
Soups and salads are big in Polish cooking too. Cucumber salad, simply cucumbers in sour cream, pairs well with rich, salty dishes. For soup: żurek is a steadfast menu item, as is borscht, and often chicken soup. Try other seasonal soups as well: pickle or ogórkowa, and mushroom are great options.
For a heartier dish, try a Hunter’s Stew, or gołąbki (cabbage rolls stuffed with meat, rice and tomato sauce). You can also try Georgian cuisine which is big here. There are dumplings (khinkali), grilled meats, and an addictive bread with cheesy, eggy filling called adjaruli khachapuri. You’ll never have to look far for good food in Warsaw.
Warsaw is a vibrant city with something to offer everyone. Travelers can explore its tumultuous past, but also hopeful fairy tales and a sense of humor. It is a wonderful place to visit with children or without, trek its streets in search of history, art, food or all three. Visit Warsaw and come away with a better understanding of the Poles and what resilience truly looks like.
Bird paintings on a brick wall with a couch on the bottom of the photo (Catherine Torres)
Catherine Torres is a USAF veteran turned freelance writer specializing in food and travel writing. You can find her work on Medium, ctwrites.medium.com.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of Defense.
