With such a colorful history and fascinating daily montage, Hydra remains a magic place that should be on everyone’s itinerary. (Mic Fleming)
Only a 90-minute boat ride from Athens, Hydra (Ydra in Greek) is the perfect starter island for your visit to Greece.
For the arrival by sea at most Greek Islands, you expect to be greeted by picturesque, whitewashed houses, ancient windmills, a bustling waterfront and golden pebble beaches. Hydra has these. But here, as your ferry cuts its engines and begins the glide into the port, you are confronted by 18 ominous black cannons mounted on two bastions straddling the harbor entry with you in their crossfire.
As your ferry cuts its engines and begins the glide into the port, you are confronted by 18 ominous black cannons mounted on two bastions straddling the harbor entry with you in their crossfire. (Mic Fleming)
Originally settled by farmers and livestock breeders, by the early 19th century, Hydra had become a sailing merchant powerhouse. Today, 30 mansions built by wealthy ship owners attest to that economic prosperity. Some are occupied, others converted to accommodation and five are open as historic landmarks. The cannons protected against foreign invaders, competitors and pirates. Today, of course, they are ceremonial sentries.
During the 1821 War of Independence to free Greece from the grasp of the Ottoman Empire, Hydriotes answered the call by creating the Greek revolutionary navy from scratch. They quickly converted 120 of their merchant vessels into warships arming them with over 2400 cannons. An astonishing 5400 sailors climbed aboard. They refitted others as fire ships. The combination won the war at sea. Many merchants bankrupted themselves in the process.
The island’s flag features an anchor, the sun and an upside down crescent moon symbolizing the defeat of the Ottomans arranged above the Spartan motto, “Come back with your shield or on it.”
Many in the revolution’s navy had previously served as captains and seamen in Ottoman fleets and were hardened, experienced seafarers. A splendid museum commemorates their successful history.
At its height in the 16th century, the Ottoman Empire was the world’s reigning superpower. Sweeping out of Anatolia, now eastern Turkey, for 600 years its armies dominated the Middle East across North Africa to Algeria and into Europe as far as the gates of Vienna.
Parts of Ukraine and all the Balkan states were under its control. It prevailed through advanced military technology with unmatched artillery on land and a navy that controlled the seaborne trade roots of the Mediterranean. Its decline only began in the early 19th century. With the revolution, Greece finally broke free after 400 years of subjugation. If you have seen the Presidential Guard, the Evzones, at the Tomb of the Unknown in Athens, you have seen their distinctive uniforms. Their kilts have 400 pleats representing each year of Ottoman domination.
Now, day trippers clutching their Rick Steves guides all have it on their checklists. But Hydra also calls romantics, dreamers and creative idlers. Its Bohemian phase included Leonard Choen, who wrote his first songs there. Henry Miller was inspired by its light. Film has showcased the island. Sophia Loren starred in the iconic movie, “Boy on a Dolphin.” In February 2026, Brad Pitt filmed “The Riders” due for release this Christmas Eve.
For the past 10 years, my wife and I have been regular visitors to Hydra. (Mic Fleming)
Yet somehow it never feels crowded as you move about the backstreets of the village and its many hiking trails. On the waterfront you can sit with a coffee or cocktail and just enjoy the people watching. Swimmers will easily find platforms and pebble beaches or take water taxis to secluded spots well-worth a half day of relaxation. Peace and tranquility have many venues.
For the past 10 years, my wife and I have been regular visitors to Hydra. It’s the place that confirmed our decision to retire in Greece. Our favorite beach is on the 40-minute hike to Plakes with its first class restaurant for lunch. My wife goes swimming early every morning, usually alone before the ferries start arriving, at the platform at Spilia in town. She loves the cats and car-free streets. I go for the military and artistic history.
Restaurants range from simple ouzeries (Greek taverns) to sophisticated gourmet choices. On the upscale side, we always visit Omilos and Techne Social for special occasions. Generally, we have found the Airbnbs to be disappointing. Like all the islands, it is expensive, but there are, nevertheless, hotels and inns for every taste and budget.
A romantic choice is the family-run Sophia on the waterfront. With only six rooms, the forward ones have balconies that offer the perfect perch for watching the daily parade of village life, which ranges from fishing boats landing to waiting cats and brides joyfully parading to their weddings and parties. Hyrdroussa is another great option. It’s a large hotel high on price/value with a fabulous breakfast buffet on a very quiet street near two nice tavernas.
Warships have been replaced by fishing boats, water taxis and civilian yachts. Art lovers, sun worshipers and cat fanciers all hear its call. It has no airport. Cars are banned and would be impossible anyway with the many stairs. If you need a land taxi, you hire a mule or a small horse. In addition to tourist luggage, they carry construction supplies and cargo offloaded from the boats. With such a colorful history and fascinating daily montage, Hydra remains a magic place that should be on everyone’s itinerary.
If you need a land taxi, you hire a mule or a small horse. (Mic Fleming)
Mic is a travel writer living in the rugged Mani of Greece. He holds a BA from Yale University in early medieval architecture and an MBA from the University of Chicago. Among other stations during his career in the Army, he served two tours in Germany.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of War.
