Though that was not enough time to see everything, I was able to enjoy many of the most charming towns in the area of Puglia. (Nicola (Adobe Stock))
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Due to a series of uncontrollable events, I found myself with two and a half days to explore Puglia. Though that was not enough time to see everything, I was able to enjoy many of the most charming towns in the area.
Puglia is only a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Naples. (Erin Henderson)
If you are flying directly to Puglia, you will most likely fly into Bari (BRI). Puglia is only a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Naples. With 257 municipalities, the best way to see Puglia is by rental car. Don’t forget to bring along your International Driver’s Permit.
If you are planning to stay for a week or longer, I would recommend moving your base every two nights, starting in the northern region of Puglia near Gargano National Park, then moving farther south as you go, staying in Monopoli and Lecce (or smaller towns of your choosing). For myself, I decided to base myself in Locorontondo, as it was a smaller town, and I was able to stay in a trulli without the higher price tag of nearby Alberobello.
This charming town on a hill is quieter compared to some of its popular neighbors. Since it was my base, I enjoyed a few hours of strolling, followed by a lovely dinner of orecchiette at Trattoria Al Vecchio Arco. This is the place to go and wander the Centro storico for a few hours without an itinerary.
If you fly into Bari, staying overnight might make sense. If not, I would allocate half a day to visit. The biggest draw for me visiting Bari was seeing the nonnas making pasta on the street. Arrive after 10 a.m., in Arco Basso to watch them deftly creating orecchiette pasta, and chatting amongst themselves. You can purchase bags of freshly made pasta; just make sure you refrigerate them to keep them fresh. If you have more travel ahead, a few of the nonnas have storefronts where you can purchase packaged pasta to take with you.
While in Bari, make sure you stop by Panificio Fiore, where you can get mouthwatering focaccia that they have been serving since 1508. After you have devoured your focaccia, the next logical stop is Gelateria Gentile for dessert (conveniently located near the nonnas). Gentile started out as a small kiosk in 1880, founded by Michele Gentile, a descendant of pastry chefs and gelato makers. There is only one storefront located in Bari, but this artisanal gelato can now be found in five locations throughout New York City. Save room and opt for two scoops, trust me.
Polignano a Mare is the perfect destination for sunrise or sunset. I opted for sunset, after spending half of the day in nearby Bari. Upon arriving, I strolled the picture-perfect streets before settling into a table at Aquamera overlooking the water, and enjoying an Aperol Spritz.
Polignano a Mare is the perfect destination for sunrise or sunset. I opted for sunset, after spending half of the day in nearby Bari. (Erin Henderson)
For the best sunset or sunrise views, locate the Statua di Domenico Modugno and walk down to the rocks below to settle into your spot. For those interested in a unique dining experience, check out Grotta Palazzese. It’s pricey, but recent reviews say the food has greatly improved with a new chef at the helm.
Known for its trulli, whitewashed, cone-shaped huts, this area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Because of its popularity, it gets very crowded during the day, so I opted for a sunrise visit to enjoy the huts without swarms of people.
Known for its trulli, whitewashed, cone-shaped huts, Alborobella was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. (Erin Henderson)
If you go during the day, there are plenty of shops, restaurants and cafes to enjoy.
If I were to go back, I would make Monopoli my base. With its lovely old town and sights like Palazzo Palmieri, Castello Carlo V, and Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia, paired with the views along the lungomare (area of town facing the sea), there is plenty to see and do over a few days. The blue fishing boats in the harbor are a must-see.
Though not technically a part of the Puglia region, it’s often found on Puglia itineraries due to its proximity. This cave town is worth a visit if you are in the area, and an overnight stay if your itinerary allows. You can spend hours exploring the Sassi (old town), just prepare for loads of steps. I had one of my favorite meals of the trip at La Nicchia nel Sasso Osteria, fantastic food with views overlooking the old town.
With just two and a half days in Puglia, I have barely scratched the surface and already cannot wait to return.
Though not technically a part of the Puglia region, Matera is often found on Puglia itineraries due to its proximity. (Erin Henderson)
For the past 16 years, Erin Henderson has documented stories through her lens, capturing the people, places, and experiences that shape travel, food, conservation, and military communities worldwide. In recent years, she has expanded her storytelling into travel writing. Based in Stuttgart, Germany, she also mentors entrepreneurs and creatives. Explore more of her photography and stories at erinhendersonmedia.com or follow her on Instagram @erinhendrsn.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of War.
