Row of gondolas in dark green water at night illuminated by lights (Kate Leahy Voigts)
“Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.””
— Truman Capote
Venice is touristy and local, bustling and tranquil, crowded and deserted. This gem is a “must-see” for visitors to the diverse Veneto region. I’ve visited Venice more than a dozen times, and it always surprises and delights. Enjoy a local café, a delicious meal, a gondola ride and an overnight stay, all in one street. These recommended experiences are so close together, pick the order that works best for you. Let’s plan your trip.
An authentic Venetian café, where you’ll encounter more locals than tourists is Ristorante Café Al Teatro. I typically stop here for a stand-up coffee or aperitivo (a spritz or prosecco), before lunch or dinner. One of my favorite visits was just prior to Christmas, when the wise proprietor knowingly pushed the tables against the walls to accommodate the stream of locals popping in for a quick drink or snack to connect with friends and wish a “buon natale” to all before heading home. Regardless of when you stop by, the prices are great and the people watching “prima classe!”
A short walk from the Al Teatro Café, you’ll find Da Cherubino Restaurant. The food, service and atmosphere are great, equally so for lunch or dinner. With its casual vibe, diverse menu (including pizzas and salads), it won’t bust your budget. Although Da Cherubino has a large capacity (it’s much bigger than it appears from the street-side), you might consider reserving a table the day prior, or a few hours before your intended show-time because of its popularity.
Venetian gondolier punting gondola through green canal waters of Venice Italy. (muratart (Adobe Stock))
Enjoy the gondola experience.
Yes, it’s touristy, and also enchanting. Officially called Gondola Bacino Orseolo, it’s nicknamed the gondola “corral.” At this picture-pretty spot, you’ll find twenty to thirty gondoliers queued up throughout the day and well into the evening, ready to deliver a thirty-minute ride which typically runs about 100 euro, regardless of the number in your party. It’s a kitschy, fun, must-do activity, particularly for first-time visitors. As your gondolier poses for great pictures, you can sit back, soak in the sights and enjoy the shouts of “oye!” (pronounced oy-ay) as you cruise through the tight turns of the canal network.
Venice is bursting with overnight accommodation options, from fancy hotels to modest private rooms and apartment rentals, for budgets from luxury to basic.
Here are a couple of options, and I’m keeping it on one street as promised:
Hotel Cavalleto & Doge Orseolo (4-star), located at the gondola corral, mere steps from Saint Mark’s Square
Hotel Mercurio Venezia (3-star), just down from Da Cherubino.
Be aware accommodation prices vary significantly based on the night of your stay. Take advantage of military training holidays and long weekends to stay on a Thursday, Sunday or Monday evening, when you’ll find greater availability and thinner crowds.
Tip #1 on navigating Venice.
The city is a maze of tiny streets connecting named and unnamed piazzas. Don’t attempt to GPS your way with an inevitably unreliable cell signal. You might consider buying a “Mappa di Venezia” for 3 euros at the Tourist Information (TI) office just outside the main train station (Venezia Santa Lucia station, on the left when exiting). Otherwise, use the ubiquitous yellow and black “Per Rialto” and “Per San Marco” signs to orient yourself.
Tip# 2 if staying overnight.
Head to Piazza San Marco after dinner to enjoy the “dueling” orchestras of the Caffe Florian and Caffe Lavena. No need to pay the caffes’ entertainment surcharges or order a 20-euro bellini to enjoy the sounds and sites. You’ll have plenty of company listening and watching while strolling through the square Napoleon dubbed “the world’s most beautiful drawing room,” after the day-trippers have departed.
Kate is a retired Army officer, award-winning writer, and travel enthusiast, enjoying la dolce vita in Aviano, Italy.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of Defense.
