Cicchetti can resemble tapas, though locals will quickly tell you not to call them that. (Kimberly Kephart)
Venice is one of my favorite cities in the world, and one habit I’ve picked up over time is stopping into a bar for cicchetti before navigating the city by foot. It’s a straightforward way to take in Venetian culture by food.
Cicchetti can resemble tapas, though locals will quickly tell you not to call them that. The distinction matters. Cicchetti are part of a daily routine, eaten quickly and casually, often while standing at the bar. It’s in these spaces—crowded, noisy and unapologetically local, that Venice reveals itself beyond the postcard version most people expect.
Cicchetti are small savory snacks served at Venice’s traditional wine bars known as Bacari. They are displayed on the counter or behind glass and ordered individually rather than as part of a formal meal.
Offerings vary by bar and season, but cicchetti often include a mix of simple, familiar preparations. Some of my favorites include:
Baccalà mantecato, a whipped salted cod spread served on bread.
Polpette, small fried meatballs, sometimes made with meat, fish or vegetables.
Sarde in saor, sweet-and-sour sardines marinated with onions vinegar and raisins (yes, raisins)
Crostini topped with seasonal vegetables, cured meat or seafood.
They are meant to be eaten quickly, often standing at the bar and paired with a class of wine, which I happen to love. There are tours based around the art of cicchetti, you can find many on GetYourGuide or Viator.
An “ombra” is a small glass of wine, traditionally local and inexpensive. The term translates to “shadow” a reference to historical wine sellers who once moved their stands throughout the day to remain out of the sun. You’ll often see demijohns lined up on the back of the counter that have various types of local produced wine.
You’ll often see demijohns lined up on the back of the counter that have various types of local produced wine. (Kimberly Kephart)
Today, having an ombra, Aperol or Cynar Spritz is routine. Drinks are poured without ceremony, and prices are typically modest (my favorite part) often around two euros, making it an easy addition to a brief stop at a Baccaro.
The culture surrounding Bacari emphasizes speed and informality. Patrons usually stand at the bar, order one or two cicchetti and an ombra, and move on within a short period of time. I personally love this. Seating, if available, may come at a higher cost. (Coperto anyone?)
A cicchetti crawl refers to visiting several Bacari in one outing: stopping briefly at each for a small bite and a glass of wine. Rather than committing to a single location, participants move through a neighborhood sampling what each bar offers.
A cicchetti crawl refers to visiting several Bacari in one outing: stopping briefly at each for a small bite and a glass of wine. (rh2010 (Adobe Stock))
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For a great cicchetti crawl, you will want to include three to five Bacari, allowing enough variety without turning the experience into prolonged evening. The practice is flexible and does not require advance planning or reservations.
Some of Venice’s best-known Bacari, including long standing favorites near the rialto area, are frequently crowded but don’t let this intimidate you! Busier establishments tend to operate efficiently and follow a predictable rhythm that can make ordering easier for first timers in Venice.
Here are some of my recommendations while in Venice that are first-timer and solo-traveler friendly.
Bar All’Arco Calle dell’Oggetto, 436, San Polo, Venice Known for its location near the Rialto market and its steady stream of locals and repeat visitors, Bar All’Arco is often crowded but highly efficient. Customers order quickly, eat standing at the bar, and move on.
Cantina Do Mori Calle Do Mori, 429, San Polo, Venice One of Venice’s oldest bacari, Cantina Do Mori has long been a gathering place for locals stopping in for cicchetti and wine. Its narrow interior reinforces the quick, informal pace typical of bacari culture.
Al Merca Campo Bella Vienna, 213, San Polo, Venice A small, casual spot tucked just off the Rialto market area, Al Merca is known for simple cicchetti and a relaxed but social atmosphere, with many patrons spilling into the campo outside.
Cantina Aziende Agricole Calle Priuli dei Cavalletti, Castello, Venice Less polished and more utilitarian in feel, this bacaro attracts a regular local crowd and reflects the everyday nature of cicchetti culture beyond Venice’s most photographed streets.
Cicchetti and ombre offer a practical alternative to traditional dining in Venice. The experience is flexible, affordable and grounded in everyday life, providing insight into how venetians actually eat and drink.
For those spending time in Venice, this is one of the best ways to engage with the city beyond the familiar images.
Cicchetti and ombre offer a practical alternative to traditional dining in Venice. (Jay (Adobe Stock))
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Kimberly Kephart is a travel writer, member of The Travel Coach Network, and group trip host who helps solo travelers and hikers turn curiosity into confident, meaningful adventures. She is based in Vicenza, Italy, she creates practical travel resources and leads small-group trips around to Jordan and around the world. You can learn more at her website kimberlykepharttravels.com.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of War.
