Freiburg in the Black Forest has a bustling old town. (Helen Rose Gabriel - stock.adobe.com)
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A Black Forest holiday inevitably conjures images of dense pine forests, thundering waterfalls and buying cuckoo clocks from the very craftsman who carved it. Maybe even feasting on a certain luscious and creamy cherry-chocolate cake. While those may all be true, there is also an urban side of the black forest worth visiting in the city of Freiburg.
Freiburg im Breisgau, as it is properly known, is a city of some 230,000 in the heart of the Black Forest and the Baden wine-growing region. Brimming with stately medieval architecture that centers around the city’s ages-old cathedral, the city is hugged by green hills and good weather. It is the city known for receiving the most sunlight in Germany.
The best bits of this delightful city easily be discovered in an afternoon of relaxed walking, starting at the Freiburg Münster. Construction of the city’s medieval cathedral began around 1200 and continued for centuries. Its Gothic church tower, completed in 1330, has managed to survive to this day, even withstanding the World War II bombing raids that destroyed much of the neighborhood.
Inside the church, which is dedicated to Our Lady, you have the opportunity to admire the altarpieces and 14th-century stained glass artwork. Take note of the windows in the nave, which feature symbols representing the guilds (a form of early trade union) who donated them. The strenuous climb to the top of the tower is also a great reward, with a bird’s-eye view of the rooftops in the Old Town.
Back outside in the Münsterplatz, marvel at the meticulously restored medieval square. The stately red building with turrets, stepped gables and arcades is the Merchants’ Hall from 1532, formerly used for storing goods and issuing customs clearances. An open-air market is set up every morning, except for Sundays and offers fruit, vegetables, regional specialties and handicrafts. The city’s signature sausage, the “Lange Rote,” is a 14-inch grilled sausage served with fried onions that’s been sold at the daily market since 1945.
The Merchants Hall in Münsterplatz was built in 1532. (borisb17 - stock.adobe.com)
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From the cathedral, walk through the city’s cobblestone-lined pedestriatn shopping area to the former edge of the old town. Of the five gates along a wall that once kept this inner city safe from invaders, two still stand watch. The Martinstor, or St. Martin’s Gate, soars nearly 200 feet above the town as busses and trams pass beneath its arch. A stone tablet acknowledges three townswomen who were burned as witches back in 1599. Not far away and atop the 13th-century Schwabentor, or Swabian Gate, a grotesque figure grimaces as he pulls a thorn from his foot, a reminder of the consequences of straying from the right path. The painting on this gate’s exterior depicts St. George the Dragon Slayer, the city’s patron saint.
Amongst the city’s most interesting features are the little streams running parallel to the narrow streets of the Old Town. The waters of the Dreisam River are channeled through a series of flat, paved gutters called Bächle that once supplied the town with its drinking water. On hot days, locals and visitors of all ages enjoy dipping their toes in the trickling waters.
The small water canals, called Bächle, line the streets of Freiburg. (Micha Klootwijk - stock.adobe.com)
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For another perspective of the town, board the Schlossbergbahn, a funicular railway that ascends up the side of the 1,500-foot Schlossberg. From there, it’s free of charge to hike up to the top and climb the 251 spiraling steps to the top of the viewing tower. On clear days, there are views as far off as the Vosges mountain range in France. For a more relaxing visit, The Dattler restaurant, at the top of the funicular is just the place to linger over the pleasing panorama.
Back down in town, beer lovers are spoiled for choice in Freiburg. Eight craft beer breweries make it one of Germany’s best places for sampling all that’s new on the scene, while two traditional breweries offer guided tours. The first, Feierling brewery and beer garden, are nestled in the Augustinerplatz, a square adjacent to the former Augustinian monastery which now holds a museum of religious artwork. The second brewery offering tours is Ganter which holds pride of place across the Münsterplatz square from the city’s iconic cathedral.
Freiburg’s Münsterplatz is home to the daily market. (sps Schwarzwald-Photo-Sester | reinhard sester - stock.adobe.com)
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