History and beauty loom large in countless German cities, and Mainz is no exception. It is the capital of Rheinland-Pfalz, and a stroll around its stunning cathedral makes for a great afternoon out.

Our walk begins on the Liebfrauenplatz. At this location, we are facing the rear façade of the magnificent Mainzer Dom.

On the left side of the square, you’ll see a curious pillar topped with an iron cross and surrounded by three smaller pillars. Look closely and you’ll see the designs on the central pillar are surrounded by thousands of heads of nails. This is the Nagelsäule.

Dating back to 1916, the monument was erected to raise money for injured soldiers and the families who suffered during World War I. Donations of one Reichsmark covered the cost for each square black iron nail, which was then hammered into the oak. The gold inscription translates to “In Times of War, Help Us God.” Other carved images depict military symbols and charitable works.

Heading counterclockwise around the cathedral and toward the Marktplatz, we pass a colorful and elaborate well, the Marktbrunnen, carved out of red sandstone. This gift from Albrecht of Brandenburg, Archbishop of Mainz, to the city’s residents in 1526 is considered one of the oldest and most beautiful Renaissance fountains in all Germany.

The well not only supplied clean water, a valuable resource at the time, but carried a warning. As in other regions, a peasant uprising had been cruely crushed in Mainz. One of the images carved into the well is that of a peasant falling backward while clutching a red rooster, a symbol of the rebellion. Other events having to do with the peasant’s rebellion inspire the well’s imagery and inscriptions. The depiction of a drunken peasant with a skull and crossbones above his head warns of the dangers of overindulgence.

Moving into the Marktplatz (also called the Domplatz) we can check out the Heunensäule. This massive sandstone column might look like it’s been guarding the spot for hundreds of years, but in fact it’s only been here since 1975 when the cathedral marked its 1000-year anniversary. One of seven medieval columns discovered in the hills near the city of Miltenberg am Main, it is speculated to have been part of an order to stonemasons that was subsequently cancelled. One theory suggests the columns were intended for use in the construction of Mainz’s original cathedral. The bronze base of the 21-foot-high column is the work of sculptor Professor Gernot Rumpf and includes symbols that represent the city’s tumultuous history.

From the Marktplatz, we can finally enter the Mainzer Dom via the visitor portico on the north side of the cathedral. This immense red sandstone cathedral is named in honor of St. Martin and is considered one of the absolute masterpieces of Romanesque architecture in Europe. A church has existed in this place since as early as 975 AD. The cathedral looming high above us today reached its present form around the 14th century, and was originally modeled after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Seven royal coronations for rulers of the Kingdom of Germany have taken place within its walls.

Although the cathedral interior is rather dark and somber, it’s worth stepping into, and there’s no charge to do so. The walls are lined with the tombs and symbols of the powerful Electoral Prince Archbishops and span a millennium.

Those really keen on church history can check out the Diocesan Museum, whose collection of religious art includes the works of the Master of Naumburg, an anonymous 13th century stone sculptor whose pieces are regarded as some of the most important of the European Middle Ages. Should time permit, pass through the crypt or allow yourself a stroll through the pretty and peaceful cloister gardens.

Back outside of the cathedral, we walk from the Marktplatz, past the Mainz fountain and across the street to Gutenbergplatz. This square is named in honor of Johannes Gutenberg who was born in Mainz and developed his printing press in the city. A statue of Gutenberg stands in the square. If you are interested, the Gutenberg Museum is a 10-minute walk north of the square and features practical demonstrations of printing and a thought-provoking exhibit of Gutenberg Bibles. It is well worth the time.

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