As we stepped off of the waterbus in Venice, I turned to face the Grand Canal to see a row of gondolas bobbing gently in unison, their glossy black hulls and bright blue covers a striking contrast.

With only 12 hours in city, there was certainly not enough time to do half of the tourist attractions available for Carnevale. But frankly, my husband and I didn’t want to.

This quick package tour to Venice was our first overnight away from our baby. And, as many new parents do, at home we had become so preoccupied with feedings, diapers, full-time jobs and the lack of sleep. We needed this weekend to reconnect and rekindle. Why not bring the romance back in one of the world’s most romantic city’s, and during their Carnevale celebration? No pressure.

I inhaled the cool, salty sea air before we walked toward the heart of Venice, Piazza San Marco.

We stood briefly in the piazza to marvel at the Byzantine mosaics of the Basilica di San Marco and Gothic arches of Palazzo Ducale, before passing by the 17th century Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) on our way to our first scheduled tour, a Murano glass factory. Here, they dazzled us with glass-blowing demos, and unfortunately blinded us with exorbitant prices. Secretly discouraged, we returned to the Piazza, where the tour continued.

One block north, the guide pointed to a little corner osteria. “They serve delicious panini on freshly baked focaccia, a variety of cicchetti [small bites] and carefully mixed spritzes to rival any of those overrated, expensive ‘tourist traps,’” he added, before we entered the Piazza.

Half-heartedly listening to the guide’s monotonous tale about the Piazza’s two columns, I was distracted by a passing couple. Her elaborate mask of green and gold peacock feathers perfectly complemented her auburn hair, green cashmere sweater, scarf, camel skirt and boots.

While admiring her ensemble, her eyes met mine, and she gave me a slow, secretive smile. It was the spark I needed. Mentally thanking my masked Mona Lisa, I grabbed Chris’ hand, whispered “let’s go,” and we disappeared to discover our personal Venice.

Thousands of masks can be found in this labyrinth of 118 islands connected by more than 400 footbridges. After a few passes at several shops, I found my red-and-black-feathered Columbina among the hits and misses on the magnificent Ponte di Rialto. Built in the late 1500s, the Rialto is the most famous of the four bridges that span the Grand Canal, itself a grand work of art.

I slipped on the mask and barely crossed the bridge before receiving curious stares, smiles and becoming captured in a photo or two. Chris, who originally scoffed at wearing one, was intrigued. The farther we walked, the more attention I garnered. Soon enough, he joined in, masquerading behind a traditional Casanova Bauta that complemented his sweater, scarf and Venetian persona. Together, we finally understood the regal mystique and sensual charm of Venetian Carnevale.

For the remainder of the day, we strolled the canals, people-watched, posed for photos, perused the shops, sat in the sun to enjoy freshly baked Frittelle Veneziane alla Crema, stopped for happy hour and peach Bellinis at Bacaro Jazz, and laughed at ourselves for continuously getting lost in the city’s confusing maze.

Somehow we managed to circle back at least twice to the little osteria near the Piazza, where we stood on the sidewalk with other locals, eating our panini and sipping Aperol spritzes. I might have had more than one.

As the sun dipped low, a gondolier took us for a romantic, two-mile drift to see Venice at its best, at sunset. And, at the 12th hour, while the group readied to board the departing vaporetto, we ran hand-in-hand through the mist for one last photo in front of the Bridge of Sighs, and one last kiss in the now-empty Piazza. Our masquerade over, we were ourselves again: two friends, two hearts, one love. Excitedly content with our personal street party, we failed to set foot inside a church or museum.

As we discovered, the secret of Carnevale lies not in the party, but in the concealment itself. This grand festival dates back to the 14th century, when Venetian laws allowed citizens to conceal their identities behind masks during specific times of the year. Nobility secretly mingled with commoners, and all tended to live more openly, spend freely and pursue illicit activities they may not have if their identities were known.

The tradition grew until the 18th century, when Venice fell under Austrian rule, and the use of masks was forbidden. The festival returned in the late 20th century after more than 175 years’ absence. Today, millions of people travel to Venice to take part in the celebration.

If you decide to go on your own, book rooms well in advance, as hotels fill quickly for the season. Venice is accessible by car, train, plane, cruise ship or ferry, so pick your preferred choice of transportation and start planning. There are numerous special events, balls and performances that require booking a ticket ahead of time; none were included in our last-minute trip and we found prices to be over our budget, however, many people find them to be an even more immersive and fun experience.

For those who haven’t planned ahead, a last-minute package tour like the one we took can be a great option. Check with your local outdoor recreation, travel offices and local travel operators for options.

In 2026, Venice Carnevale lasts from Jan. 31 - Feb. 17, and themed around “Olympus - the origins of the game” to mark this year’s Winter Olympics in northern Italy.

To help you plan your itinerary and book an event, visit the official Carnevale di Venezia site for details: www.carnevale.venezia.it/en.