Sunrise in the Sahara Desert (Erin Henderson)
Earlier this year, I spent nine unforgettable days in Morocco, tackling an ambitious cross-country itinerary with three friends. We spent countless hours in the rental car, laughing, singing, sharing stories and subsisting on gas station snacks.
Our days were filled with wandering through bustling medinas, riding camels into the vast Sahara and meandering through the iconic blue-washed streets of Chefchaouen with no agenda other than to take it all in.
We covered a lot of ground in a short time, mainly because we were determined to spend a night in the Sahara, an experience that was absolutely worth the long drive. If we were to do it again, we’d all agree on staying two nights in the desert and skipping Rabat and Casablanca altogether (just our preference). If you only have a few days, I recommend basing yourself in Marrakech and doing the desert trek to Merzouga Dunes, which is closer to the city.
Marrakeh Medina with fabrics and textiles in baskets and on the walls (Erin Henderson)
Day 1-2: Marrakech
Day 3: Drive to Ourzazate (on the way to the Sahara Desert)
Day 4: Sahara Desert overnight
Day 5- 6: Fez
Day 7: Chefchaouen
Day 8: Rabat/Casablanca
Day 9: Fly home in the afternoon from Marrakech
There’s so much to absorb in the markets of Marrakech-the colors, the textures, the energy. To me, markets are the heart and soul of a city, and there’s nothing I love more than wandering through them, camera in hand, capturing whatever unfolds. You never know what’s waiting around the corner, so I’m always ready. You can spend a whole day wandering through the old medinas, and I would recommend at least several hours. Hiring a local guide is also a great idea, as they can show you hidden gems and help negotiate any market finds you want to bring home.
What we saw in Marrakech and recommended spots:
Explored the medinas
Madrasa Ben Youssef
Le Jardin Secret
Le Bistro Arabe (also has an upstairs restaurant, La Pergola, with the best chicken tagine)
Jardin Majorelle
El Badi Palace
From Marrakech, we began our journey toward the Sahara Desert, where we were spending one night in a luxury tent beneath the stars. The original plan was to take a sunset camel ride upon arrival, but a windstorm swept through the area, making that impossible.
Author standing in the Sahara Desert on a sunny day (Erin Henderson)
Instead, we rescheduled for sunrise, and it couldn’t have worked out better. We were greeted with a peaceful, golden morning and a breathtaking desert sunrise. We all agreed: one night in the Sahara just wasn’t enough. In addition to camels, you can rent ATVs to ride in the dunes.
The next day, we loaded up in our trusty Duster and set out on our longest drive of the trip, an eight-hour journey to Fez. Fez was full of energy and chaos in the best way, especially inside the walls of the old medina. We spent hours weaving through the markets, taking in the layers of history and craftsmanship tucked around every corner. We even said goodbye to a chicken and watched as it became someone’s dinner. One evening, we treated ourselves to a traditional hammam experience, which was both relaxing and unforgettable.
Visiting the leather tanneries had been high on my list, but honestly, the experience was underwhelming. A rainy day combined with empty dye tubs meant we missed the burst of vibrant colors I had hoped to see. That said, it was still fascinating to witness the centuries-old process in action. And if you’re worried about the smell, it really wasn’t as bad as expected. But just in case, they do offer sprigs of mint to hold under your nose!
Chefchaouen was one of my favorite stops. The blue town is just as enchanting in person as it appears online, with maybe just a few more cats walking around.
Blue walls and doors in Chefchaouen (Erin Henderson)
An overnight stay was the perfect chance to soak in every colorful corner and alley. If you visit, make sure you get bread from the lovely gentleman working away in his little shack right at the end of town.
After a week of riads and desert camping, we treated ourselves to a night at the Conrad in Rabat, and let’s say that hot shower felt amazing. A few glasses of wine were also very much in order, especially since we’d been traveling during Ramadan, when most places weren’t serving alcohol. We soaked in the comfort of the hotel, enjoyed a quiet evening, and recharged. The next morning, we spent a few relaxed hours exploring Casablanca before heading back to Marrakech to catch our flights home.
Things we explored in Casablanca:
Hassan II Mosque
Olive market
Antique market
If you’re a woman visiting Morocco (with other women, especially), wearing modest, loose-fitting clothing can help reduce catcalling and unwanted attention. Unfortunately, it still happens, especially in the markets, but can be limited when wearing modest attire (leave the leggings at home).
Haggling is expected in the markets; don’t settle on the price you are quoted right away. Typically, you can get it for about half or less of the original quoted price. But, be respectful during your negotiations and know it’s ok to walk away. Other stalls may have the same item, and you can try again. They only accept cash at the souks, so make sure you have some on hand.
If you are driving a rental car, refrain from speeding at all. There are police checkpoints throughout the country at random intersections, and they will issue tickets for even a kilometer or two over the speed limit. Have your passports ready during your road trip, as you may be asked to show them.
If I had to pick favorites from the trip, the Sahara Desert, Chefchaouen and Marrakech would be at the top of the list. Each spot stood out for different reasons: the sunrise camel ride in the desert, the blue streets of Chefchaouen and the energy of Marrakech’s medina.
Aeriel view of Fez (Erin Henderson)
For 15 years, Erin Henderson has been a photographer capturing compelling stories around the world – from travel and food to conservation and military life. She’s published internationally and mentors entrepreneurs from her base in Stuttgart, Germany. You can find more of her work at erinhendersonmedia.com.
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of Defense.
