These three towers bore witness to the city of Ghent’s evolution, shaped by trade, art and conflict. (Alexis Weinrich)
Ghent, Belgium is a city abundant in history centered around trade and religion. It radiates a medieval mysticism that draws travelers from around the world. At its center, the St. Michael’s bridge provides an awe-inspiring view of three prominent landmarks: St. Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry and St. Bavo’s Cathedral, but this view does not tell the whole story.
These three towers bore witness to the city of Ghent’s evolution, shaped by trade, art and conflict.
Developed in the 13th century to replace Romanesque predecessors, the church was dedicated to St. Nicholas, patron saint of merchants and sailors. It was considered a symbol of economic prosperity, particularly within the power of the guilds. It served as a center for prayer and as the city’s observation tower (until the completion of the Belfry). Today, it remains one of the oldest standing structures within Ghent and is the oldest of the three towers.
Initially funded by local merchants, the church’s construction progressed in stages, corroborated by timber analysis that dated roof structures between the 13th and 17th century. By the mid-15th century, it transformed into a center for guild activity with over 20 chapels being constructed around it. This can still be seen in its interior artworks which are inspired by the surrounding guilds.
Despite continued work, decline began when interior damages were sustained during the Protestant Reformation in the 16th century. This was exacerbated during the French Revolution when the church was converted to a horse stable. It wasn’t until 1852 when interest piqued in gothic architecture stimulated restoration efforts and triggered the demolishing of surrounding properties affixed to the church’s exterior in the 1900s. Modern-day urbanization has provided obstacles, but plans remain underway for preservation that will balance the church’s role as an active parish and historical site.
Construction of the Belfry started around 1313 but paused for several years due to conflict between England and France. (Alexis Weinrich)
Construction started around 1313 but paused for several years due to conflict between England and France. By 1323, the stronghold was largely complete and served both as a watchtower and document storage facility. It quickly became a symbol for the political power of the guilds.
Trumpeters or bellringers sounded hourly, day and night, while watchmen guarded the city against invaders and fire. This continued until 1869. To this day, the bell alarm, dubbed the “Great Triumphant,” remains an integral part of the city’s history and is even nicknamed “Roland” by locals.
The Dragon of Ghent was installed atop the Belfry in 1377 where it stayed for 500 years as a symbol of vigilance and protection. The current dragon was placed in 1980. In 1380, the first clock mechanism was installed, kickstarting a new responsibility for the guards who adjusted the clock several times daily using a sundial to ensure accuracy. This tradition continues into modern day as the current clock, installed in 1913, is still manually wound daily.
Historically, city documents were secured in chests locked within a safe in the tower until 1408 when they were moved to a “secret chamber,” known as the “Secreet,” and chained to the floor. This chamber remains of particular interest because, during World War II, it was used as a command post for German soldiers that could be reached via underground passages. Today, visitors can view this chamber within the Belfry.
In 1999, the tower became a UNESCO World Heritage Site which has allowed for regular maintenance and renovations.
The cathedral began as the Church of St. John the Baptist, constructed in 942. Romanesque elements were added in the 12th century, followed by gothic renovations in 1353. By 1559, most Romanesque structures were replaced with gothic architecture, although traces can still be seen in the cathedral’s crypt.
After St. Bavo’s Abbey was demolished during the Ghent uprising of 1540, monks forced into secularization relocated to the Church of St. John, which was then renamed St. Bavo’s Church. In 1559, the Diocese of Ghent was established, promoting the church to a cathedral. The interior was subsequently altered under Bishop Anthonius Triest’s influence to a more Baroque appearance.
In 1795, after the annexation of the region to revolutionary France, anticlerical policies nationalized all of the chapter’s possessions which were dispersed to public institutions as deemed fit.
Nonetheless, the cathedral remains a repository for religious art including “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb” by Jan van Eyck, an innovator for Renaissance realism. Commissioned as the altarpiece while the building was still the Church of St John, it avoided iconoclasts (destroyers of religious artifacts), was looted by Napoleon, and stolen again during World War II before being recovered by U.S. military forces in the Altaussee Salt Mines of Austria. Restoration of this famous piece is still ongoing and expected to be complete by 2027.
The Dragon of Ghent was installed atop the Belfry in 1377 where it stayed for 500 years as a symbol of vigilance and protection. (Alexis Weinrich)
Editor’s Note: This article was written by a member of the local military community, not an employee of Stars and Stripes. Neither the organization nor the content is being represented by Stars and Stripes or the Department of War.
