EUROPE
Szczyrk giant sign covered in snow

Whether you snowboard or ski, the Szczyrk Mountain Resort in the Silesian Beskids mountains is the best in Poland.  (Kat Nickola)

Skiing down from the Skrzyczne peak, I looked around and got that funny feeling of being the odd one out. Not as an American at a Polish ski resort. And not for having fairly mediocre skills. Instead, I realized that I was surrounded by snowboarders! As far as I could tell, mine were the only two skis on the #21 slope at the time. It was a fleeting moment, but I did notice a way higher ratio of skiers to boarders than at a typical resort, which, as a newbie boarder made me smile.

Whether you snowboard or ski, the Szczyrk Mountain Resort in the Silesian Beskids mountains is the best in Poland. As the largest downhill resort in the country, it has just over 36km of slopes. This isn’t a huge place, but big enough for a great weekend trip. In the summertime, the resort converts into a bike park and hiking destination, shuttling mountain bikes and families (including dogs) uphill on the gondolas.

Lift to the snow areas

With three starting points along the valley and a free ski shuttle, it isn’t difficult to find a place to stay near to the slopes.  (Kat Nickola)

With three starting points along the valley and a free ski shuttle, it isn’t difficult to find a place to stay near to the slopes. Note that if you buy the discounted GoPass online at the Szczyrk resort website, you can only pick up your tickets at the central Szczyrk gondola. This can be done ahead of the day your lift pass activates. You can also buy tickets for the entire resort at the other two valley gondolas, but only in person at the ticket counter and without the GoPass discount.

My friend and I stayed at a family-run hotel near the Skrzyczne gondola, after arriving during a snowstorm the night prior. On ski day, I had no set plan other than to figure out how to get on the slopes. It was shockingly fast and easy. I simply walked across the street to the nearest ski rental hut and sauntered out 10 minutes later with my boots and helmet on, skis and poles in hand. I left my shoes at the shop. Right around the corner I bought my electronic ticket card at the window, stuffed it in my pocket and walked through the turnstile onto the gondola. At the top, I clamped down my boots, clipped in and was on my first run within 30 minutes of breakfast.

View of the snowsport area

At the top, I clamped down my boots, clipped in and was on my first run within 30 minutes of breakfast. (Kat Nickola)

The slopes were nice, and varied from long trails to short, steep sections. In early January, the snow was still a bit fresh with a few patchy spots; I ended up on a closed trail at one point, but it was simply ungroomed. The day was crispy and sunny, and bitter cold in the morning. I’m glad I brought my heavier layers and bright goggles.

At noon I stopped at one of the four mountain restaurants for a tasty stew and French fry dish with a beer. I selected it based on the convenient photos, since very little English was spoken, but employees were all so nice and happy to work with me to figure things out.

Yellow ski lifts above the snow

The slopes were nice, and varied from long trails to short, steep sections. In early January, the snow was still a bit fresh with a few patchy spots. (Kat Nickola)

I explored the entire resort in a single day, with few lift lines and plenty of downhill time. At the end of the day, I slid right to the front door of the rental shop, dropped off my kit and put on my shoes to walk back across the street for a nice hot tub soak at the hotel.

Szczyrk is easily accessible via a comfortable five-hour intercity train from Poznań to Bielsko-Biała, where you can arrange a rental car, taxi or take bus 120 for the half-hour ride to Szczyrk. Without traffic, driving from Poznań or Powidz takes roughly six hours, and from Żagań it is about five hours.

author picture
Kat is a travel and lifestyle writer based in Kaiserslautern, Germany with a special interest in anything outdoorsy and ancient, or casual gaming. She has a bachelor’s degree in geography from Penn State University and a master’s degree in archaeology from the University of the Highlands and Islands.

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