View of the hiking trail leading up Mount Vesuvius (Katie Wells)
For centuries, Naples and Vesuvio (Mount Vesuvius), have had both a beautiful and fatal relationship. Neapolitans have planted vineyards on the fertile slopes, creating specialty wines. Artists like Andy Warhol have been inspired to create series of paintings. Eruptions have caused historical changes like the eruption that buried Pompeii and Herculaneum in 79 A.D., which allowed for an extensive archeological record of Roman life preserved in time.
When in Naples, I knew I had to hike this famed volcano. There are many tours to Vesuvio, and if you are military-affiliated, the simplest one would be through MWR. With limited time, I booked a tour through Viator—a half-day hike with a specialty Margherita pizza lunch and wine tasting. Unfortunately, my tour was cancelled the night before. Scrambling to find another one, I chose a simple half-day group hike, where the bus dropped us off at the beginning and picked us up at the end… or so I thought.
Our tour bus driver expertly navigated the skinny switchback up the volcano. I watched the city grow smaller and appreciated the scrub of evergreens and broom spreading over the mountain.
When we made it to the parking lot near the peak, we were given a time to meet back at the bus. Our driver drove away, and we were on our own to enjoy the sunny November day and hike to the top. I slowly hiked up the steep, rocky, elevated path, a faint scent of sulfur in the air, and wondered what it would be like to see this beautiful monster erupt. Yellow flowers dotted the rocky terrain on my left, and to the right was an expansive view of Naples and the bay.
Bay of Naples as seen while hiking up Mount Vesuvius (Katie Wells)
Once at the top, the terrain leveled out. I took my time admiring the overlooks where I could see into the craters of Gran Cono, or Great Cone.
The rocks and craters of Vesuvio on a sunny day (Katie Wells)
Some of the many stairs leading up to Vesuvio (Katie Wells)
A lookout area close to the Mount Vesuvius crater (Katie Wells)
Looking down into the crater at the top of Mount Vesuvius (Katie Wells)
At one point, I saw a sort of totem pole, with charms and stickers from others who made it to the top. It turned out to be measuring equipment.
Tagged measuring equipment that resembles a Totem pole at the top of Mount Vesuvius (Katie Wells)
Embedded in a rock was a dedication to the Virgin Mary. I wondered if there might be more shrines along the path, perhaps one for San Gennaro, known as the protector against eruptions of Mount Vesuvius.
A shrine dedicated to the Virign Mary embeded into the volcanic rock (Katie Wells)
The trail led a good portion around the circumference of the volcano, and along the way, there were small gift shops selling hand-crafted lava rock items, postcards, drinks and small bites to eat. I purchased a postcard, a pair of earrings made with the porous black stones and a special wine made with grapes grown in Vesuvius’ soil.
Visitors enjoy some sun while hiking up Mount Vesuvius (Katie Wells)
After meandering back down, I sipped sparkling water and soaked in the warmth of the sun while waiting for the driver. The return bus ride was full of chatter when suddenly we pulled to the side of the road. Our driver stood up and said something like, “We have a special surprise for you all, just today.” His buddy hopped on and ushered us all out of the bus and into his little shop perched on the cliffside.
In Naples, buffalo mozzarella is a specialty of the region, and in Italy it’s nearly impossible not to try a sip of famous limoncello. At this little shop, the owner enthusiastically told us of his dream to create the perfect delicacy: “Buffalo Mozzarella Limoncello! The only place in the world where you can get one-of-a-kind bellissimo Buffalo Mozzarella Limoncello!” He let us sample the special liquor along with another of his inventions, buffalo mozzarella chocolate, and both were honestly delicious. I nabbed a small bottle and a couple of bars to take home to my spouse.
We piled back onto the bus thinking next stop was the drop off point, then in the middle of the highway we pulled off to the side and my name, only my name, was called. After a few scenarios ran through my head, the driver explained that, since I was the only one going to a separate drop-off point, they had hired a car to take me there. I slid into the back of a sleek black cab, and we were off. Perhaps I should have paused a bit longer. You never know what you’re going to get in Naples. At nearly every part of my stay, something I hadn’t planned for occurred. Yet, it was one of my most memorable trips, and the pivots almost always enriched my experience.
Making it to the top of Mount Vesuvius (Katie Wells)
